Archive for September, 2003

Palma to Soller

Friday, September 26th, 2003

PalmaHaving had a wonderful time in Palma and with plans to winter over here next year, being such a vibrant place 12 months of the year, we are now on the move again.

Cadiz was finally back in the water with one coat of paint short, called short changed again, and new feathering prop in wrong rotation, a new experience with the throttle but this is Spain.

We lifted the boat again a few days later in an electrical storm and a lighting bolt put a current through to the prop electrocuting the Spaniard fixing his mistake. Luckily we had all the electronics switched off as we do when any electrical storm goes through.

Had a very nice evening with Peter and Emma Tabone, visiting their very interesting old town apartment on the top floor overlooking the lit up historic Cathedral. Peter (Gooch) certainly hasn’t lost his eye for a good investment.

Thanks to Peter for sharing all his knowledge of the Med for our future travels.

An old school friend of Ian’s from Christchurch Liz Gendall and husband Heinz arrived to spend a few days with us. Heinz a keen pilot and any chance to fly somewhere flew down from France joining us at Puerto Cala Nova a small marina set up by the yachting federation for youth development and Olympic training ( a site to be envied by all Australians). Interested to see two Sydney 40’s on the hard.

Julian Lennon (John Lennon’s son) has a restaurant bar called Red Bar in Puerto Portals Nous and we all decide to check it out as it has an Aussie chef trained by Neil Perry.

The highlight to the evening was to be Pavlova but turns out to be a meringue with a dob of cream but we did get to see Julian and the fantastic decor.

Day and night spent in beautiful bay of Cala Portals still inside the big bay of Palma. How wonderful to have such bays in reach of Palma for day trips. Heinz who has had the opportunity to fly everywhere in Europe with his plane has never been to Mallorca because he thought it was a concrete jungle. He was blown away by its beauty and non built up areas and will certainly be back.

Back at Club Nautico we catch up with Anna and Murray Thomas with his brother Ian and wife Maree. For Anna’s birthday, it’s champagne at Abaco at midnight in the old town. The only way to describe this place is to say its Moorish style, high arched ceilings, unbelievable arrangements of huge fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables and prices to go with it.

After too much champagne its time to move and with Liz and Heinz we sail out taking the exposed north west coast as the weather is settled and can only be attempted in such conditions.

With a following breeze the new snuffer on the spinnaker was given its first run and as Ian did not disappear up the mast it was deemed to be a success. I must say it is an excellent investment and will make life very easy and will now get more use. We still don’t see other yachts with spinnakers up.

We sail into Puerto Andraitx and now know why Christopher Skase lived here and why all the journalists liked this assignment. This small fishing harbour lined with beautiful traditional homes set in pine trees and rolling hills where everyone gets a sea view is a must to see. It’s nice to be anchoring again away from expensive and busy marinas but still in the shelter of a harbour.

Liz and Heinz fly home and Anna and Murray join us for the day trip up coast to Puerto de Soller a 25 mile sail through the Dragonera Passage and see some of the most beautiful water to date on our trip. The scenery is spectacular with high cliffs deep right to the edge with us only metres from shore.

The pine trees on the high mountains behind finish off the scene. Stopping to swim at Peninsula de la Foradada it is like being in an
aquarium and also visited the bay of Cala Deya rated the 7th most beautiful place on the island and where Michael Douglas has a house.

We anchor for the night in Puerto de Soller the only shelter on the north west coast where Anna and Murray are staying in an apartment with a fantastic view over the harbour. In typical Anna fashion we celebrate her 50th for the 8th time for breakfast on their balcony overlooking Spanish terracotta roofs, olive groves and of course Cadiz in the harbour below all surrounded by mountains.

SollerIt’s now time to test our two new fold up bikes and ride 4 ks inland to the old town of Soller. I wasn’t sure about getting on a bike again but after a wobble or two managing to avoid the old tram that runs from the port to the old town. Soller is a wonderful contrast to Palma with the island being able to appeal to all tastes.

We leave tomorrow for the top of Mallorca to get ready for the crossing to Menorca a distance of 30 miles.



Palma Mallorca

Sunday, September 21st, 2003

PalmaThe island of de la Caleta off Las Illetas looks very much like the place we could stay for the rest of our lives. We anchor in 4 meters of turquoise water, and sand of course, and stay four days. We become locals and get invited home to dinner by Wolheim and Jo a Swiss - New Zealand marriage.They were swimming around the boat and one gets talking. Wolheim circumnavigated the world in a 75 footer, and Jo joined as crew in Sydney and married the owner. They now live in Palma with three children. They enjoy our yacht, moored off their local beach, and we enjoyed an excellent NZ lamb meal.We also catch up with Grant Calton, a friend of Caroline and Rachel Grant’s, and had diner at the must be seen in Puerto, ‘Portels Flanagans’. You can�t imagine this port - it is a must to visit. A marina full of super yachts, cruisers, restaurants, shops and bars. Day and night full of pretty people. Our boat would look pretty small here, and we don’t dare ask the fees.We also have in our bay a newly opened nightclub in a natural cave full of laser beams called ‘Virtual’. As we dined on as excellent meal, we watched the boat at anchor and then night clubbed the night away (still life in the old boy).The days are spent swimming , snorkelling Puerto, with Portels for lunch, and explore the islands by dinghy. We are now berthed in the King’s berth, right next to the Real Club Nautical (must have known we were coming).Bay on Majorca

Far too close to the bar, but fantastic Club, swimming pool, gym, etc etc. We are also only 200 metres from the old town and Cathedral.

Ian goes missing now and then, only to found at the rubbish dump. Super boats in there 100’s and super rubbish to be found, so glad we have only so much room. The hardest part is I have to look pleased with every find.

Home away from home, yacht, club, bar and of course the bar flies. It doesn’t take long for word to get around, and suddenly we are surrounded by Aussies who work here. ‘Gooch’ Peter Tabone, and Jim Bell both sailed with us on Starlight Express, and Jackie and Paul Hunt (Hunty).

Thanks to Sail-World, the yachting email newsletter which Di Pearson is the editor of, and publishes the ‘Treleavens Travels’, Jim Bell was able to track us down.

Peter is master on a 100 footer, married with wife expecting a baby. Jim owns a successful canvas business with his wife and 2 children. What a life all these guys have had starting out working on boats and now living here.

Balearic IslandsThey made a snuffer for our spinnaker, designed by Vinnie, with super yachts in mind. The snuffer could take 50 knots and the spinnaker only 30 knots.

Spike told the tail of his 20-year Line 7 old PVC jacket. Many years ago he suddenly had to leave his dinner and sail out of port quickly. Not wanting to miss out on dinner, he put it all in his waterproof PVC pocket and ate it at sea.

Today we are out of the water to be anti fouled and to fit the 3 bladed feathering prop we brought from Sydney.

Tomorrow night we are back out in Palma Bay. 

Ibiza to Mallorca

Friday, September 12th, 2003


Ibiza Ibiza the city we enjoyed for its restaurants, pretty people all set in the cobblestone lane ways of the old castle. Very vibrant nightlife but nothing starts till 3.00am in the morning so we left it all to the young ones.
The local yacht club front door requests in its English translation, that to enter the club you must wear clothes, so that says it all for this area.On our way back to boat at 1.00 in the morning we were suddenly confronted by the Guardia Civile and an area was roped off only a short distance from the yacht club. Anyone trying to get through to the nightclubs was threatened with handcuffs. After waiting patiently for an hour we hear two explosions and were finally allowed to the boat at 4 in the morning. We heard the next day it was a bomb scare and the noise was the doors being blown open on the suspect car in the yacht club car park. Just another day in our adventures.We sailed to the north of Ibiza and the following day sailed the 50 miles to Mallorca, well actually motored, as it only blows when we are at anchor. Mallorca on first approach looks fantastic, and to date has not changed our thoughts. This is paradise with sophistication.MajorcaWe have been here three days and only one storm, with the papers reporting damage to houses and boats. During the storm we were anchored on a lee shore and were preparing to go to better shelter when the yacht next to us had both his dinghies upturned in the 35 knots.His inflatable broke free, and drifted ashore, luckily to the beach. A guy came down to beach to help, so we thought, and in front of our eyes and the screaming owner, removed the outboard, deflated the dinghy, put it in his van and disappeared. Our dinghy is now firmly pad locked wherever we go.

Our anchor problems are now sorted. The problem is the local weed and it is essential to drop the anchor on white sand and avoid the dark patches.

Las Illetas near PalmaTalking to the locals, no anchor will hold on the weed. We also learnt another trick. The local pilots for the area are fantastic, and when we found a nice sheltered bay, the pilot advised putting a trip line on the anchor due to all the old mooring lines on the bottom.

Our yacht has one with a buoy and we duly fitted it. Sure enough, the next day when we lifted anchor, it came up to within two metres of the surface and wouldn’t budge, and we see a fouled mooring. The trip line worked a treat by taking the weight and letting down the chain and we were free.

We are getting our best information by just talking to other cruising yachts and an English couple have given us software so that we can download free weather fax data off the HF Radio.

The service is in English out of Hamburg and breaks the Med into eight areas with a five day forecast for each. It is not the same as the maps we receive in Aus, but is very thorough and appears to be accurate.Las Illetas Bay

Seeing the whole Med has helped us plan our trip. The Gulf of Lyon which is Barcelona through to France has been blowing Force 9 (50 knots) from the north for days (the famous Mistral). From this we have now decided to stay longer in Mallorca and see Murry and Anna Thomas on the 22nd and then sail to Sardinia to meet up with our daughter Janey on the 12th Oct. We will go back to France next year.

At the moment we are anchored in perfect turquoise water off a white sandy beach. We will stay free anchored as long as the weather lasts or we may just never leave.