Archive for April, 2004

Capri to Tropea

Thursday, April 29th, 2004

Ischia - CapriToday, our crossing of 50 miles is flat calm from Cetraro, the bear suit is off, but not much else, and we have to motor all the way.Our destination is Tropea, at the top of the toe of the shoe, and we are getting excited about crossing to Sicily. It’s Max’s birthday and we can taste the seafood pasta of clams, scampi and mussels and local wine, which Tropea is famous for.Leaving the Island of Ischia a week ago in the pouring rain, but all the same a very picturesque place famous for its thermal pools - we will come back to it. We sailed to Capri and out came the sun.

We were in Capri four years ago and it is still magic. A place everyone should visit not as a day tripper but stay and enjoy.Capri

The credit card is out for me and there is a boat show on, so Ian is in his element. The tender I choose was a 40 footer Riva motor cruiser, brown with white upholstery, lots of chrome and called Chocolate.

Max rejoins us here, and with Ian’s negotiating skills, we are given a fresh tuna from the fisherman next to us. We circumnavigate the island and motored over to the Amalfi Coast. Positano Positano is magnificent as we approach, and is very exposed to the sea but as its flat calm, we chance the night here on a mooring. Ashore we climb the numerous stairs and enjoy the feel of Positano.

We knew we were the first tourists of the season as the locals were eager to rent us the mooring for the night and they also got us ashore with $60 for two beers and a Campari.

It’s a way of life now, and as we head south, we have to be very aware of what we are paying. Price also depends on whether you sit down or not, take it on a plate or eat it out of a napkin. It takes Ian hours to get over being ripped off and the poor man gets it every time we pass.

After a rolly night we cruise the Coast to Amalfi bringing back memories, last time it was in a hire small boat with outboard, and stay the night.

The ever present little man is at the wharf to meet us, and so the haggling is on again! This is a beautiful part of the coast, but don�t come in July and August, it must be hell. Our little man does come in handy when out to sea two miles we realize we don’t have our dinghy.

We are now well south in search of that better weather and even though the bikini got a very brief airing one day we must have got too excited.

Stopping at various Ports for the night, in low key very old villages, we have enjoyed the local cafe for our cappuccino, pastry, aperitif and beer with the locals.

Positano In Agropoli we enjoyed watching the sport of canoe polo between the pontoons, very aggressive and a very serious sport here. I can see Cable and Shifty fighting it out in canoes in the Marina.

Our last port looked OK from the water with its usual castle, but has been renamed Shitoli by Ian. The castle was the only interesting building and just left to deteriorate. The numerous old stone villages in the valleys and on hill tops are being forsaken for newer places on the coast.

We have yet to have some success with trolling for fish. Andrew Short�s lure is ten times the size of any lure here (no marlin or sharks here), so with a new smaller one we will try our luck today.

Tropea Tropea is a delightful old town - 200 steps directly up from the marina. Renowned for its Calabrian produce and wine, we spend time stocking up for our trip to the islands. The restaurant that we had heard about was exceptional

Thank you for all your emails it’s very nice of you all to let us know how good the weather is in Sydney but hopefully we can reverse this.

Tomorrow, if the weather is good, we go out to the ever active volcano island of Stromboli (the oldest light house in the world) and the Aeolian Islands.

For those of you who know Max, you will be pleased to hear we have him waking up at 8am instead of his habitual 5.30am. Must be the wine!

Back to Rome 2004

Tuesday, April 20th, 2004

Rome coffee styleYes, the Treleavens have left sunny Sydney for freezing cold Rome, to continue their European cruise. Max ‘Cyclone’ Ryan has joined them for a few weeks, so will also figure in these annals.This is the first installment since their return and we will bring you updates as we receive them. Di Pearson www.sailworld.comPorto D’Ischia 19/04/2004 After a great morning of sailing, 40 miles from the island of Isola Ponza to Isola Ischia, we have had lunch on the quay a glass of wine, then back to the boat for the siesta time zone.It’s not exactly Med cruising as we are a month too early and still very cold and wet.We arrived in Rome on the 6th April to relaunch our yacht in the Fiumicino Canal.It’s 10 degrees, but we press on and paint the bottom with the help of Max Ryan, who has joined us for eight weeks.The wintering over in the canal has worked out very well, costing us only $250 a month, a haul out charge, and the best part was the boat was still there after five months!

While the boat is out of the water, you can work on it yourself which is unusual, and Fulvio, the yard owner, was very helpful.

Rome at EasterEaster Eggs are a very big thing here and we saw the biggest one we have ever seen at our favourite cafe in Fiumicino.

The canal is very dirty and as soon as we were in the water and the draw bridges opened, we motored three miles down the coast to Porto Turistico Di Roma, Ostia.

In the Port, life has gone on with lots of live-aboards. The winter has been especially cold with snow on the decks, very wet and dirty oil all over the boats from the Tiber River. The up side was the camaraderie they all had, and the facilities ashore of marble washrooms and laundry were of a high standard.

Ian and Max re-ran all the halyards, sails and covers that we removed when we hauled out, an excellent move when we saw all the oil and dirt on yachts that stayed in the marina.

Ants in his pants Max wants to move on, and the weather forecast looks horrible, but we compromise and motor south, punching into the breeze 30 miles to Porta Nettuna, a very nice fishing village with a very good marina.

As weather goes, its shit, and we have to sit it out for three days. Ants in his pants Max decides enough is enough, so flies to Croatia to visit a friend, and will rejoin us in Capri.

We loved Nettuno, a holiday resort for Italians. We discovered a local bar that made their own wine, no labels and bring your own bottle, wouldn’t suit Bucko (Andrew Buckland)?

We make the most of the bad weather, and as the saying goes in the Med, it’s great or ugly. It’s now the 17th and looks good to sail to Ponza, wind in the right quarter, cold but sunny.

With the water now crystal blue, we have a great sail 40 miles to the Island of Ponza. The Port of Ponza is a picturesque fishing village with its lime wash assorted pastel coloured castle and buildings.

A very sleepy island in winter, but vibrant in summer, especially for diving, but we are a month too early. We stay the night on the hydrofoil wharf and get moved very early next morning, but as it turns out, they do us a favour and we have a great sail to the island of Ischia 45 miles away, doing 9 knots.

At SeaWe passed the island of Ventotene, which was once a penal colony and the place Nero’s wife was banished for being a bad wife. Eventually she beheaded, her head given to the mistress.

Can’t give Ian any ideas so we sailed past!

Ischia port is a delightful but small bay/inlet harbour, but can’t imagine what it’s like in high season, accommodating ferries, hydrofoils, fishing fleets and yachts. Low season $90 high season $260 if you can get a berth.

Tomorrow we move on to Capri.

Our plan for the next seven months is the West coasts of Italy, Sicily, Tunisa, Crete, Greek Islands, Turkey and Croatia. Many friends are joining us as we go.

We now have internet aboard the boat while we are in Italy and hopefully we will be able to negotiate the same in other countries.

With my Musto bear suit (fleecy lined one piece suit) on, we are sailing south in search of better weather.