Celalu to Palermo
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Cefalu has been a wonderful stop over for a few days. Another storm went through at 50 knots and starting to wonder why we came down here. It's a very late summer but does look better next week. Have I said that before?
Ants in his pants Max hires a car, as this is all to slow for him, for five days and the first day we all go inland to Gangi 100 km up in the mountains and 1154 metres high, I think the snow just melted. Getting Ian to leave the boat for one day is amazing but he soon forgets and enjoys the country as it's very like NZ, very green and about to burst into flower.
The very old medieval villages of stone sit perched on pecks and ridges and are a splendid sight. Here I have read about a 16th century monastery high in the mountains that serves fantastic Sicilian food. At Gangivecchio we enjoy a no menu lunch of 6 courses of pastries, pasta, risotto, wild roast pork and fig tart, local wine and mandarincello. Our favorite was the pear, gorgonzola cheese and pistachio nut risotto.
One day in a car is enough for Ian and myself, and now enjoying a few days on our own while Max drives every inch of Sicily.
A charter boat with the Maori name Hauraki is in the marina so the ever curious Ian investigates and the Polish people on board are only too pleased to find out how to pronounce the name. Still don't know how a charter boat out of Italy register in Greece sailing in Sicilian waters gets its name. Anyway a few days later late at night during the last blow a may-day was heard and turned out to be a very well pronounced "Hauraki".
The rescue boat left flashing all lights and later both returned. Thanking Ian the next day they were again soon on there way. Its fantastic that the Italian authorities have the resources available too go to the rescue of any boat in difficulties especially some European charterers with little experience.
Cefalu nestled under a big rock; we loved for its restaurants, shopping and ice-cream in a brioche. The ever present cobble narrow lanes with its dripping washing, fiats and dog shit. With cheap marina fees we are reluctant to leave but have to get to Palermo to meet friends arriving. Howard and Valmai De Torres are with us for 3 weeks and Michael and Di Quaife for 5 days.
We have read very different reports about Palermo from rats, dirty, mafia and wantonly dressed women. We are going in make our own judgment. Not sure which one of us is going to check out the women. There are two sports here, one is soccer and the other bag snatching from vespers. Hold over shoulder bags away from the traffic we are told.
Deciding on the marina right in the old centre is almost not a good idea. I am not allowed to tell you too much but its very crowded and tight to get in with everyone's mooring lines everywhere. We chop up a few and finally get in. The water is stagnate and smelly and our skin stings from retrieving the laid lines, but we get to know our new neighbours in the local yacht club and things are looking up.
Palermo at this time of the year couldn't have been better as it does get very hot. It's Sunday and at the end of our dock is the Palermo" Portabella" style antique market. We enjoy the atmosphere with the locals; walk the marble stone streets and archectically historical city. Ian has everything tide around my neck; no vesper is going to get our things, just my head.
Despite what we have been told we have thoroughly enjoy our visit and a neighboring yacht has bought us from their farm organic virgin olive oil, not one bottle but a box full.
Our plan now is to sail the North West coast and west coast to Malsala (yes, the sweet wine, have a few) and sail to Tunisia.
Last night we had fireworks in the bay they must have known it's my birthday today. I am hoping for a good night out in Palermo tonight. Tomorrow we leave and the weather is great at last.