Archive for May, 2004

Lipari to Cefalu Sicily

Monday, May 3rd, 2004
What a welcome to Sicily.      

Lipari - Volcano Yesterday with James and Caryn still aboard we left Vulcano in the Aeolian Islands on what started as a brilliant day, sunshine and bikinis. But how things can change. Its 50 miles to Cefalu and 10 miles out we could see a front coming. With the pasta lunch and wine glasses on the table it's suddenly all whisked away. Shortening sail it was fast sailing until on shore we could see the sea being whipped up like smoke clouds and its down with all sails and harnesses on, bringing a reality check to our guests. We have a policy you don't look at the wind strength when it gets over 50 knots. Stromboli Very thankful for our big motor we slowly get into the bay and anchor in the lee of the cliffs. It was nice to have the company of another yacht who saw us making for the entrance and decided to join us. With the waves washing over the marina there is no way we can get a berth, so anchoring was our only option. It blows force 10 and even at anchor the boat is on her side but the anchor holds and we wait out the storm that closes the Palermo Airport. According to Ian and Max, just a fresh breeze in Bass Strait.

Stromboli Leaving Tropea on the Italian Coast a week ago in brilliant sunshine, we toast to a very successful stopover with our limoncello and almond biscuits and are very happy that summer has arrived. Our cruise across to Stromboli in the Aeolian Islands is flat calm, no wind and dolphins lead the way.

Stromboli volcano is alive and looking very majestic, for now anyway. On one side its life as normal for the locals in their all white square flat roof houses set against the very black rock and black sand. We motor around to the west to see the active side and its quite breath taking. Stromboli smokingThe whole side from top to waters edge is hot smoky and noisy. Taking the dinghy in close we watch pieces break away and cascade down into the sea, fizz and spray water everywhere. We do find out later that it is a forbidden area.

A night in Stromboli and walk the narrow white lanes and look for D&G's (fashion label)
holiday house here. The next day brings a lot of wind and very different conditions, on the nose we head for the island of Lipari and find refuge in the marina.

We visit the must see museum and it's really worth the visit. The pottery, gold jewellery and coins found in terracotta tombs and sunken ships are a wonderful sight having been preserved in the volcanic soil or deep cold sea. We are fascinated by what looks like a cooking plate but turns out to be a cock washer. Ian is fascinated and wants one.

Lipari is the capital of the islands and has been settled since Neolithic times. Over the years they have had difficult times with invasions and eruptions. It has only recently been discovered by the tourists. Over the past 50 years over half the population here left to settle in Melbourne and Sydney so we are constantly being approached by locals who wont to tell us of there relations in Australia.

Finding its white bait season we enjoy fritters for lunch on board New Zealand style.

For the past few days we have been sailing in tandem with another boat. Lipari - Volcano with Tony and JaneTony and Jane have been great company sharing lots of stories over a wine or two. We all climbed to the active craters edge of Volcano on the island of Vulcano, swim in the mud pools and hot bubbling sea. Sounds all very grand but it smelt like a piggery.

Volcano HarbourYou only see your new friends for a few days but make friends for life. We go different ways but we will cross paths again.

Sunday and we have had a beautiful day. Joining us for a few days from London is James Pegum and friend Caryn.

We wake in Cefalu to a brilliant day, exchange exaggerated stories with other boats making more friends and visit the wonderful old village of Cefalu and our cruising continuous.
 

Arrivederci