Sailing with the Treleavens

I now know what a Meltemi wind is. For the past 10 days it's been full on, continuously NW wind up to 40 knots. Most boats stay in port but oh no, not us!

I finally found Ian in Ios searching the bays for something and instead found lots of young NZers and Aussies working here for the summer. Was great to watch live the Bledisloe cup in the local sports bar with a lot of them from both countries. The wind keeps us in port here but after two days we have seen the island on motor bikes, eaten several times at the Octopus Tree Café with the octopus literally hanging in the tree, and sunbathed on the beach which Ian never does so its time to move.

The wind is less around 5 in the morning according to the local fisherman, so it's up early and a 20 miler to our next island of Paros. Never quite ending up where we intended to go, we make for the sheltered bay of Alyki on the southern end. Paros has some of the best golden sand beaches around and is famous for its white marble. I am fascinated by all the white marble; they build everything including fence walls and the break water at Pisso Livadi Marina with it. We missed the Olympians as they haven't arrived yet, but they have a great place to train and of course plenty of wind. May we wish them all the very best.

Once again it's an early dash across to the island of Naxos and time for a little land therapy. A bus ride into the mountains to visit Apiranthos, a village built entirely of marble; houses, streets, cemetery, you name it its marble. Lunch and back to the windy coast where the boat sits in the port right on the promenade. We enjoy Naxos Chora waterfront and in the old town we find a jazz bar with great music.

We could have stayed longer but checking the internet café for weather information we have one more average day and then its going to really blow. Our destination is Mykonos and the wind is on the nose, probably the trip we shouldn't have done, but we make it or should I say the lone sailor Ian made it as Janey and I are hiding in our bunks.

There is no way we can make it to the main town on the north side as its blowing 40 knots. Approaching Ormos Ornos we spy mega power boats anchored stern to in a cove, so we are cheeky and small enough to slip inside them all and find great shelter. We are very glad to be here as it's as far north as we go. It's still blowing hard but blue cloudless skies and sunny days it's still fabulous.

I have read a lot about Mykonos, good and bad, so heres another one eyed report. This is a place for the rich and famous, straight or gay all having a great holiday. There is nothing to do here except sunbath/party at Super Paradise beach and then dress up for the evening parade in the old town which doesn't start till mid night. At 2am its disco time at Space (entry $AUD 40) or Cavo Paradiso ($AUD 75). At Bar Uno we chatted to Greek Australian actor Nick Giannopoulos (from the Wog Boy) who visits here for 4 weeks every year.

The boat sits in clear blue cool water and the super yacht paid hands don't mind keeping an eye on ours while we explore the island. We loved our few days here while the wind settled down and we are now on our way to Siros the capital of the Cyclades, for a little more culture.

Its only 20 miles and the meltemi has started to abate and in the town square only 100 metres from the yacht there's a live Greek Concert tonight. With a line up of 10 mandolins and 8 singers it's a fabulous night till we eat at the Aussie Greek Rip off Restaurant in the square. He mentions connections to the Bulldogs, maybe that says it all.

Janey leaves us on the fast ferry tomorrow morning at 4am ,just as well we don't have far to walk.

Our entry to the Greek Islands is Kos and once you get past the fast food and loud music you can find it's interesting preserved history strewn everywhere, especially the original mosaic floors and painted walls from Roman times still in their original position. Great to see Janey and it's always nice to have company onboard. Our evenings are spent listening to roots 'n blues music under bougainvillea and full bloom pink oleander.

Our first island is Kalymnos and now away from the main land it suddenly strikes you how baron and rocky these islands are going to be. The blue water and the all white houses and churches with their blue dooms, doors and windows make up for it. Our first meal ashore in the bay of Emborios is very local and delicious. Inquiring as to what is fresh and local the reply to the chicken was 'it's the neighbours'. Too much information as we don't dare look over the fence.

A day sail or motor as it's on the nose to Amorgos famous for the movie The Big Blue being filmed here. Passing many small islands that are really big rocks sticking out of the ocean and the habital bigger islands with strange formations incurred by earthquakes in the past. When you first arrive at Amorgos you can't help seeing on the side of the baron mountain these stone walls looking like veins that lead up from the ocean and cross to form paddocks. The walls are 2000 years old and the area was cultivated once. Nothing grows here now, not even an olive tree.

The Port of  Ay Annas is small and as natural as it gets with every house white and blue. Out to the bay of Ormos Kalotiri and Ian is looking for Shirley Valentine. These are very lazy days in the hot sun we swim and move on. In this bay there are 3 Aussie flags; Tim Lamble from the Eastern suburbs is solo circumnavigating the world and a Perth family.

In Katapola, 40 race yachts are on the wall and we soon learn that's it's the 41st Aegean Rally, an islands race out of Athens. The fleet included 2 Farr 52's. They told us they had an Aussie entry 2 years ago and Ian thinks it was Bill Psaltis. What a fantastic event going from island to island in these winds and water. After the prize giving we had the local specialilty lobster spaggetti, unforgettable!!

Our highlight to this island has to be the visit to the 9th Century Monastery high in the mountains. A breath taking day we climb 300 stairs and have to take cloths to cover all our skin. Inside where 3 monks still live we are welcomed to sit down at their table and have sweets and local liquor. The Monastery clings precariously to a cliff face and contains a miraculous icon that was found in the sea below the cliff.

Santorini is amazing; here they now say is the lost city of Atlantis and you are actually sitting in the volcano. The anchorage is not ideal at Thira but we take the risk on this perfect day in 50 meters of water. The cable car takes us up to Thira and we bus to Oia, the most picturesque town I have ever seen. The views from the ridge are spectacular and even though its tourists everywhere somehow you don't mind, everyone should see this place.

The island in the middle of the large harbour is just a huge pile of black coal which I found to be very spooky. This 'island' is actually the plug for the volcano which they say could blow anytime. But it was when Ian told me about the big fat rats, that I was on my way very quickly.

On our entrance there were day time fireworks, later we were to learn that the Olympic touch relay had just passed though. There is certainly an Olympic feeling in the air here.

Now in Ios which has my vote for sandy beaches. This is reported to be the nudist island but in fact it's a bit of both. Another lazy day and…. where is Ian?
 

Sailing up the Coast of a country with 57 million people, of which 41% live inland, and no one in sight. Its 40 miles into the Gulf of Gokova, our destination Castle Island and Cleopatra's beach. We haven't gone very far in the past few weeks as we love this part of the Turkish coast and in fact we have been here three times. It's only a blip on the world map and a very small part of Turkey.

At the end of the Datca Peninsula stands the ancient city of Knidos, founded 3000 years ago. In the bay you can dream of an ancient past civilization that was once here. You walk over marble columns and pottery pieces lying on the ground, climb the marble stairs of the amphitheater and view the boats in one of the two bays. 8000 people lived here once and is famous for its statue of Aphrodite, the first carved nude women, as until then only nude men where carved. Also famous for its scientific mathematician Eudoxos and still remaining today amongst the ruins is a marble sun dial he designed and built.

In the past few days we have been following what we thought was a research team complete with a mini submarine. Only to find one morning, when they crossed our anchor, and we were trying to untangle there mess, that they are Australians making a movie for the ABC on underwater Archeology in this area.

Now into the Gokova Gulf we are at first a little disappointed with some of the bays strewn with rubbish, something we haven't had in other parts of Turkey. Here the Kiran Mountains are big and rugged with craggy bays and tall pine trees. The water is still very clear and the cicadas have taken over from the discos, but the wasps move us on a few times. It's a very remote solitary beautiful area but not a lot of boats around. One English couple on there own charter boat told us they have not had a booking all season.

When we came to Cleopatra's beach, the only white sandy beach for miles, 15 years ago, we could just walk around the amphitheater and swim where we liked, but now it's full on tourist boats bringing up to 600 people a day. You now pay and enter the sea by steps, no towels on the beach, no taking of the sand and shower when you get out. The beach is very small and in a way they are protecting what is really a unique piece of history.

Cleopatra brought the sand from Africa as a present for Antony to have a beach to sit on.  It's quite unusual sand and looks like moth eggs. As for the island the ruins date from early Carian to the Byzantine occupation.

Making our way out to Bodrum on the east coast we have two beautiful clear blue anchorages. One is Akbuk and the other Kargicik both good shelter from the persistent meltemi wind. Wind is great if it's going in your direction.

Bodrum has been great for a few days and the marina first class, with its facilities and service, and enjoying the fabulous Marina Yacht Club at nights and a little retail therapy
by day. Marinas are an ideal place for maintenance and Ian is very happy changing oil and filters and also now has his spinnaker back, smaller, but in one piece.

The Knights Castle here is impressive and houses the largest underwater archeological museum in the world with finds from wrecks around the coast we have just sailed, dating from the Bronze Age to the Ottoman period. They were amazingly advanced and in fact anchor designs have only changed in the last 100 years.Bodrum is also the sight of one of the ancient 7 wonders of the world, the Tomb of Mausolos (the Mausoleum) from 377BC but only the foundations remain.

Bodrum has a great atmosphere and it would be very easy to spend a long period here. We are once again surprised to see large numbers of charter yachts and Gullets not being used. Where are all the tourists going?

Coincidences seem to keep happening to us, and today on another yacht refueling was Eddy, the Musto agent in Germany. He charters a yacht in Turkey every year and believes it's the best cruising in the Med.

We leave Turkey with fond memories of beautiful bays, translucent water, clear blue skies, warm winds, antiquities, wonderful combinations of food, lovely honest people and we will be back.

It is only 12 miles to the Greek island of Kos were we meet our daughter Janey. We have to obtain a new Transit log as we left Greece for Turkey, and this time they charge us E30.We think Cretans are very kind to New Zealanders and Australians because of our 2nd world war effort.

Our plan with Janey is to sail south to Amorgos, Santorini, Milos and then to the island of Paros where some of the Australian Olympic Yachting team are training.