On the Dalmatia Coast
Show on Map
The temperatures are rapidly dropping with the Bora wind hitting us, fortunately while we are tied up in Split Marina.
The past week coming back up the coast with Jane and John has been very pleasant with little wind and what there is, has been on the nose. We have now travelled this coast 3 times and 3 times we have had it on the nose, just our luck.
Finding new bays to swim and have lunch never seem to disappoint us, as they are all isolated and beautiful. A bright orange star fish is found, and such a find in these dead waters is rare. Jane and I discover herbs and delicious wild figs ashore while John prepares a gourmet lunch, but the uninvited wasps move us on very quickly.
Our best lunch to date in Croatia was at Hannibal's in Hvar, carpaccio fish, Scampi and grilled squid were delicious. Also very good was Boban in Split, as we sailed into Split John received a SMS message from Sydney to tell us of the restaurant, isn't technology great.
Asking the taxi driver what Split is famous for, he replied spit roast lamb, black wine and someone else's wife. You can change to white wine if you like but can't change the wife.
The old town within the walls of the fortified Roman Dioclerian Palace are a great example of late Roman architecture, about AD 300. Now the main commercial port in Croatia and also the main sailing centre. While we were there, the national optimist class racing was on and it was great to see so many young girls and boys competing even in these conditions. It was also great to catch up with Borut, the Musto agent here who we have known for years.
Jane and John get the ferry to Italy and we intend to only stay one night in Split .It turns into two as the bora wind is here for a few more days. Don't mind the wind but the sudden cold change has taken us by surprise.
Sunday we leave and Ian is in his element in this wind, and sail 35 miles in 4 hours, and I am in my bear suit keeping warm. Finding a sheltered bay on the island of Tijat for the night is beautiful, no swimming, too cold. Next day another great sail, according to Ian, to Biograd. Why is it that everyone around us has only one sail up with a big reef and we are charging along with both sails set and a small reef, but we are first into the marina. (I think Ian is still racing the abandoned races from the Croatia rally).
John Messenger left us with the latest copy of Sydney Afloat and we did have a laugh about the Anchoring Tips. In the Med the safety swing would just not apply. A recent harbour comes to mind at Hvar where you free anchor, put out all fenders and hope you all move at the same time. There are 30 yachts in a small bay at anchor and the night we are here its no wind and you just wait for a bump. Also in the bay stern to, thank goodness, is Independence one of the largest super yachts.
A surprise visitor to the yacht was Josko Grubic and wife from the days of Anaconda 2. Josko was born in Split and this is his first visit back here and was amazed at the great cruising ground. At 80 he would still love to come here and own a boat and probably will.
We are now in Kornati Marina Biograd ,Croatian base for The Croatia Yacht Rally taking the opportunity to prepare Cadiz for wintering over. We have decided not to go to Venice; it can wait till next year. Have decided to explore the islands just north of here and then haul Cadiz out of the water and head home to Sydney in 2 weeks time.