Sailing with the Treleavens

The Kornati Islands are an internationally protected group of islands 150 miles north from Dubrovnik. The park is 36km long and 6km wide and is made up of 147 islands all coned shaped and baron, set against blue sky and water. It's almost boringly beautifully.

It's always a highlight if the local market is on your doorstep as it was in the main marina in Dubrovnik. It's fresh, cheap and what's in season is what you get. The old lady from the mountain village is selling her goat's cheese (very important to know the difference between baa and maa) olive oil and herb vinegar, to the young man selling fresh strawberries that look great on top but rotten on the bottom.

A few boats along from us is another Sydney Yacht from the CYCA, Jose de la Vega's Dreamtime, skippered by Dave Hill.

Blowing quite hard with clouds starting to build, we head out with Liz and Heinz to the island of Mljet. There's a chill in the air now and as the sky is looking very grey ,we take shelter in Okuklje cove. Suddenly it takes us by surprise and its winds of 40 knots with lots of lightning and thunder. All the boats are dragging anchor and so are we. Then came the rain and getting wet doesn't matter, it's a welcome relief, we have had no rain since May. Very short lived, cleared the air and next morning another bright blue day with a great sail to the Mljet,Polace National Park Inlet.

A very beautiful area with lush green pine trees to the clear waters edge and many rocky craggy bays to anchor in. Obviously a favourite with the very big cruise boats and when night came, on went their lights and it became fairy land. A highlight that evening is the local fisherman coming along side and selling us fresh crayfish, which Heinz cooked to perfection. The salt water lake with its Monastery set on an island in the middle is worth a visit by ferry.

Our next ports are Korcula, Hvar and Trogir with there contoured walled small old villages built at the end of a peninsular, not like other countries where they built there villages inland to protect themselves from pirates making it very different and interesting.

The one thing I remember years ago is seeing a poster on Croatia and it showing a beach that points out into the sea with lots of people on it. As I haven't seen a beach since I got here we have to find this one not far from Hvar on the island of Brac. It's a perfect day and we anchor in perfect blue water and get invaded by 8 young Aussies and Nzs off another charter boat backpacking around Europe. A swim ashore and its white pebbles not sand.
We overnight in Lucice on Brac, a remote bay where you pay to pick up a mooring but they do deliver to your boat next morning fresh bread and pastries.

There's no comfort to read when walking on the island of Zirje, stick to the paths as there are still mines around. Needless to say we do stay overnight with Heinz treading very gingerly whilst attaching the stern line ashore.

The Korneti Islands are a National Park to encourage marine life. Resembling a lunar landscape, conical brown and bare it is one of the most recognisable places on earth from space. Following a locally produced Croatian pilot containing charts of 777 harbours and anchorages we discover beautiful sheltered bays, Stupica, Smokvica and Luka Zut all with a restaurant selling their own caught fish.

Liz and Heinz where great company, with Heinz never leaving the wheel enjoying this magic cruising ground.

Now in Biograd, every one is gathering for Trevor Joyce's Regatta. Taking 2 weeks we have 7 races ending 180 miles down the coast to Dubrovnik With 24 yachts competing its going to be hectic on the start line especially as the local wind ,the Bora has just come in getting up to 40 knots. I hope John Messenger, Peter Sorensen and Bob Fraser remember they are on holiday.

It was very sad for us to hear that John Bonao died. John was the helicopter pilot that Ian Mainsbridge used to photograph most of the yacht races, and a great friend and supporter of our company. We shall miss his zest for life.