Sailing with the Treleavens

Tuscan Islands and its bloody hot!!

From one side of Italy Venice to the other side Rome we sailed 1040 nautical miles where Geoff and Pip Lavis and Kevin Horne leave us. It was good to have the company for our 3 week circumnavigation of the boot of Italy; we certainly had a lot of laughs, good food and drank too much wine. Every port we get fresh and local produce according to the region. Its fun!!!

With my two burner stove and little oven you learn to compromise, time things and don't get too elaborate but lots of flavour. Garlic, onions and copious quantities of olive oil seem to creep into every meal. There is plenty of time at sea to prepare good food and drink to the passing coast line. If we dine in the saloon of course we are constantly bobbing up and down to check for boats.

Porto Turistico di Roma is great for repairs, laundry, international airport and the very best of shopping from fashion to nautical chandleries. This marina has become an upmarket resort with 800 boats spaces filled with a lot of very powerful boats.

A day into Rome and it's not a good idea in this heat but we have our favourite shops and especially a wine bar, L'Etotec Antica in Via della Crose, to visit. People queuing to get into the Gucci shop, and policewomen in high heals, there is always something different to see in Rome.

Gear cable fixed, the best place to be is at sea where we have no wind, but it is cooler. Italy is on fire with a heat wave; if you are interested go to forecast.uoa.gr (no www), press skip info, find date, then T2m & MSC Pres. Temperatures are well into the 40's.

You hear a lot about Tuscany, but never hear much about the Tuscan islands. There are 7 islands in total between Corsica and Italy covering a distance of 70 miles north to south. 60 miles north of Rome is the low lying small Isola di Giannutri, a national park. It's Sunday and we did wonder where all the boats from Rome went for the weekend. Well this is one spot. Anchoring in very deep crystal blue water, bay full of boats, a sanctuary for thousands of birds and what a noise. No stereo at sunset tonight, the mother gulls are trying to get there babies to sleep. I don't dare feed them in fear of an invasion and the movie 'The Birds' comes to mind.

The island Giglio is 12 miles north, a much higher island of solid granite boulder rock. A bay off the port is paradise emerald blue and it doesn't get any cleaner and clearer than this. Back to being tourist's we visit the Castello by bus and make the mistake of going at midday. One it is hot, and the other is bus drivers also have a siesta, we never get used to the siesta thing.

The stone medieval walled castle high on a hill is still intact with people still living inside the defensively clustered houses. Narrow alley ways and arches leading to the Parch Church make it quite charming.

The port of Giglio is small but quaint in Tuscan colours and golden sand. Breakfast ashore, we have cappuccino and melt in the mouth chocolate croissants. A very thin layer of chocolate and light pastry. Two please!

We motor sail 39 miles to Elba, the biggest of the islands and past the Island of Montecristo (out of bounds to yachts). Napoleon was exiled to Elba for 2 years. Visiting his mansion with beautiful gardens and great views it wasn't a bad place to be exiled to.  Bay hopping between cliffs, swimming and eating, these entire islands are an Italian secret. We are also told that inland Elba has a lot of interest and will make a note to return someday to see more of this mountainous island and crystal clear water with great diving.Our first Mistral wind warning and we are in the bay of Portoferrio one of the safest ports in the Mediterranean, according to Nelson. It's not too bad a wind but wouldn't won't to be in the Gulf di Lion. Portoferraio is home to one of the Americas Cup syndicates and next year the Farr 40 worlds are in the next bay around, Porto Azzuro.

Meeting up with Franco and Livia Pivoli, the Musto agents for Italy we are assured that dinner ashore is always going to be a good. One of my pet hates is food for tourists and food for locals. Bay Bug spaghetti and fish soup, yum.

On our way again to La Spezia, an 80 mile all day sail in perfect
conditions, Ian is in the bow having a sleep and little does he know that dolphins are playing a few feet under him. It doesn't matter how often you encounter dolphins you always get a nice surprise, stop what you are doing and enjoy them.

In La Spezia we are too met up with our son Ian who has flown in from Sydney and our daughter Janey is also joining us from her P.A. job with super maxi Maximus NZ9999 which is currently in Cowes preparing for Cowes week and the Fastnet Race.

It will be nice to be back as a family once again.