Sailing with the Treleavens

It's September 1st and we have woken anchored behind an island in winds that feel like they are off the snow capped Pyrenees. By lunchtime we are inland at Santiago de Compostela and its 30 degrees Celsius.

La Coruna was shop till we drop with Janey as she has now joined us. This is home to the 'Zara' label and I am making up for all those nautical shops Ian has dragged me into. Janey purchases a three piece work suit for E105, great value for money. 

At the entrance is the Roman built 'Tower of Hercules' lighthouse, reputedly the oldest working lighthouse in the world but little remains of the original structure otherwise it's a Modernist city of glass, wrought iron and stone. We stay 3 days anchored in the bay enjoying the evening concerts in the square and good restaurants. One such place we order the local peppers (pimiento) which usually aren't hot but unfortunate Ian got one; wasn't until the next day with his other end on fire that he declared he would not eat anymore of those.
Time to round the most western point of Europe once known as the end of the world, Cape Finisterre, for which we have named our boat. At the Cape there is no welcoming party just hundreds of seagulls excited to see us. Finisterre is a small fishing port; we have a seafood lunch of cockles, razor horns, squid and wine to toast our 'Cape Finisterre'. Razor horns are new to us; a tube shell between 10cm and 20cm long, tasting a bit like calamari.

All along the coast are Rias, to us estuaries or inlets, very beautiful with white beaches, green pine trees and a navigation nightmare full of fish farms, mostly clams and mussels. With fantastic sailing we are making good progress past the coast of Costa da Morte, the coast of death, and with the sea temperature at 8 degrees it's just as well.

Just when I start to think what the hell we are doing here, we have the most fantastic day. The third most religious place in the world is Santiago de Compostela 30kms inland from the nearest port, Vilagarcia. The story goes Saint James, one of Christ's disciples, was beheaded, put in a stone boat and ended up here in the Ria de Arosa before being taken inland. This became the pilgrims walk to Santiago de Compostela with a cathedral the focal point made from local granite in the 9th Century. The alter as you enter is a breathtaking gold Saint James, angels and urns that they swing with essence burning but only on Holy days.

As you walk down the narrow lane ways full of restaurants displaying food it's always a difficult decision but the Lonely Planet book recommends a Tapas bar laden with tantalising food. 'A Taberna do Bispo' is an amazing degustation of fresh scallops, prawns, cockles and sardines just waiting to be cooked or toasted bread topped with tuna, salami, grilled peppers etc from the most welcoming of hosts.

Another delicacy of the region is Tetilla (i.e. nipple, as in breast of a women), cheese that looks and feels like its name; we will keep one for Rob Mundle who is joining us next week.

Combarro a restored quant fishing village is a lunch stop. The horreos are everywhere and at first they look religious but in fact they are for storing grain or drying fish. We try some very traditional fish dishes as I promise Ian a steak tomorrow. 

Today is our first day anchored off a beach near Vigo, the sky is blue, the weather settled and yes we are in swimmers. Janey is leaving us tomorrow to travel to Ibiza with her mate Cam but plans to rejoin Finisterre in Portugal for some Port tasting.