Sailing with the Treleavens

A dream run south to the 29^th latitude, 900 miles north of the equator and where summer is 12 months a year. My first impression of the northern most Canary Islands is that they are similar to the Kornati Islands in Croatia, flat baron sand dunes, with volcano eruptions evident over the landscape. We soon find a bay, Playa Francesa, to anchor in for a few days where the water is crystal clear.

Morocco seems so distant now but a place we are in no hurry to return. A country of extreme contrasts where we had highs and lows, enjoying the experience very much but I never felt safe. Mohammedia was very much the most modern town we saw with its large French suburb, supermarket and patisseries, made our stay their enjoyable.What I have trouble with is the extreme poverty (80%), then the other small extreme, wealth. Women and children begging for money and then make you feel cheap for looking different to them. The Mercedes Benz shares the road to the market with the donkey and cart. The manicured gardens are beautiful but there is no money to repair the paths or roads.A pristine clean modern patisserie in one street and the next a fruit shop so disgustingly dirty.

From the train you see women washing on scrub boards at the local well and then we take a room at a Riad, scrub, waste water and say isn't Morocco a fabulous place.

The Morocco they want you to see and write about is an exotically different country. Medina's, colourful souk's and elaborate Mosques, too some great recipe ideas, using preserved lemons, spices to slow cooking meats in a targine. All this I loved but my heart goes out to the beautiful young girl collecting water with her donkey. A photo opportunity, I ask to take her photo, she nod's wipes her face and smiled. I don't suppose I can but I hope she feels I could make a difference. We went to an 'Elvis' impersonator show and spoke to two French women married to Moroccan men and they talked of wanting change but now the threat of terrorism, the new disease, as everyone calls it, things are not promising. And then there are the persistent diarrhea stories. Ian had an urgent call while at a train stop and after inspecting that the loo had holding tanks this was his moment. Looking back only to discover the contents sitting like cow paddies on the track, paper and all. Then the embarrassing 20 minute wait in the station. Then later at a Palace restaurant, another blast and couldn't find how to flush. Next thing was a knock at the door embarrassed he looks out to find a girl with mop and bucket. Looking very much forward to clean bays and swimming we leave Morocco, for the Canary Islands, 450nms south west. A 24 hour run with our new 'Hood' orange gennaker up, gets us well ahead of our day light land fall but the wind dies and then for the next 36 hours we have to motor sail. Kevin and Ian enjoying testing sails and setting up sheets. After previous success with fishing we let the line out with every opportunity. This time we were out smarted by the birds. They kept swooping around the lure and we did manage to snag 2 which then freed themselves. What they were actually doing was trying to steal it, which is what we found when pulled it in at dusk. The lure had gone and the birds had unhooked the attachment. Rex Hunt never showed us this side of fishing. The island of Graciosa is land fall and as we enter between two islands a local wind hits us at 40knots. After securing us to a fishing boat Ian ventures ashore to the sand swirling white village with sandy streets; it is like something out of a 'western' movie. We see the desert island by Land Rover taking one hour and all that time Kevin could hear in his head was the music from 'The Good, Bad and the Ugly'. Another day climbing the volcano to see the panoramic views which are spectacular and exercise we needed. It is nice to be able to swim again during the day in the beautiful waters. Now on our wa y down the east coast of Lanzarote with the north east trade winds blowing, giving us excellent sailing. 

Mohammedia is the beach resort for Casablanca which is only 16nm south of here. The new marina being built in Casablanca will not be complete until 2010 and as Mohammedia Marina is well guarded and the only one on this coast we have decided to stay put and visit places from here. Even the Kings personal launch is in view of us.

The romance of Casablanca is where we all dream of going to someday! A 'petit taxi' takes us to the edge of town, then the 'grand taxi' to Casablanca and there's nothing grand about either. No air conditioning and no door handles, if you want the window down, to let all the dust in, he passes you the handle. We are not very impressed by the poverty we see on the way and negotiate for the taxi to stay with us. We finally get to the vast Mosque Hassan 11 and this is very grand. Built on the water front where once a shanty town of extreme poverty was, stands now the 3rd largest Mosque in the world. Completed in 1993 at great cost to the people it is now a legacy of Moroccan architecture. This is the only Mosque in the world that allows non Muslims to visit inside.

Marble everywhere, ornate cedar wood, granite, coloured glass and chandeliers decorate the inside. From the washing fountains to the steam rooms it's all very impressive. The 200 metre high minaret looks over a city where a 3rd of its population live in tin towns without sewage so a lot of this doesn't make sense to us.

Across from the shanty medina market another extreme difference is the Hotel Hyatt Regency with sheer luxury as we sink into black leather chairs, dark red wood panelled walls and white marble lamp shades. The Casablanca Bar themed on the movie is the only reminder of the famous movie but in fact the location for the movie was Hollywood. At this stage we realise we have to pay big money to find the beautiful side of Morocco.

Next day a 5 hour train trip takes us all inland to the largest living Islamic medieval city of Fes, where we plan to stay overnight. High season and accommodation isn't easy as we want to stay only in a Riad, a traditionally restored old family Palace converted to exclusive guest houses inside the medinas. We are met outside the medina by the manager and walked down narrow lanes with very high walls of Sahara clay plaster, engulfing us into another world.

A key unlocks an old wood carved arched door and we enter yet another world as we gasp at the central interior of high ornate white plastered walls, tiles of blue and white, carved wood, gold inlay ceilings and the colours of Morocco we have come for, orange, red, yellow, lime green glass and pottery. 'Au vingt Jasmins' (20 Jasmines) is perfect as we (not John) sip mint tea and gaze out to the private garden of arches covered in jasmine.

After a no alcohol lunch in a Palace (Ian hated couscous before we got here and now he hates it even more) we take a guided tour in the maze of streets and all the boys are looking for is a beer. The young King is in the Mosque and half of the medina is closed which brings a smile to Johns face. Around the alleyway from our hotel is 'Riad Fes' Hotelier de Luxe with a superb modern Moroccan interior, world class bar and restaurant, we all couldn't be happier.

Great company, Andrea and John return to Spain and we return to the yacht very satisfied with a new perspective of Morocco. Kevin Horne is joining us now and we will wait until he arrives, then go straight to the Canaries a 430nm crossing to Lanzarote. Further south are more fishing ports but don't really accommodate our size yacht.

Enjoying some quiet time we are getting to know Mohammedia and the friendly locals are getting to know us. A lot of French is spoken here and the French Patisseries are a welcome sight every day now that Ramadan has finished, the difference is amazing. Some women are now in modern colourful dress, cafes open and full of happy people.

Getting fuel has been a new experience for us, we have to take 30 litre jerry cans to the station about 1km away and carry them back. Flying our ARC flag we are now meeting a lot of other boats doing the same. 'Blizzard' from New Zealand is here and we all enjoy a few drinks together. Only four weeks to the race and every time I think about it I get that shiver in my stomach.  
  
For Ian's 60th birthday we go inland to Marrakesh to find that special place on the edge of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert. An Oasis of tall palm trees greet us, after a flat dry desert train ride. Pink stucco buildings, a medina with 15 arch entrances, mopeds in their hundreds and then the initial shock of Berbers and Arabs living as they have done for 100s of years.

Our Riad Farnatchi, complete with its own hammam, is authentic and luxurious. The nicest thing about these places is the calming effect it has on you. The central courtyard with pool and sounds of running water is very cooling, above; rooms with their own balconies look down. The afternoon is spent relaxing after a black soap scrub on hot white marble tiles in the hammam.

The must see Majorelle Gardens were the creator and private garden of Jacques Majorelle the painter, now owned by Yves Saint Laurent and open to the public. A collection of plants from five continents is a work of art where one can sit and listen to the birds. Ian is more interested in YSL's mansion next door.

The souk here is a pleasant surprise as we pass through to get to the Djemaa el Fna Square, where the evening is like no other place in the world. Snake charmers, story tellers, acrobats and fortune tellers entertain more locals than tourists. Along side are food stalls, sheep's head stew, snail soup and fried fish already for you to sit down on benches and enjoy the atmosphere. Not exactly what Ian wants for his birthday so we dine on chicken targine with preserved lemon and olives, beef with orange marmalade at a restored Palace under the stars?    

The new French town outside the medina for lunch the next day, Grand de la Poste is very French, no couscous, as we wait to get the train home to our own sanctuary of luxury, Finisterre.  
   
 
 

On a clear blue calm day sailing past Cape Trafalgar, the sight of one of the most historic naval battles in 1805. Then rounding Tarifa on the south western corner of Spain we could see North Africa only 10 miles away it seemed so close we could reach out and grab it. We have sailed 1400 nautical miles from Les Sables France to Gibraltar the most southern tip of our European Atlantic Coastal trip this year. The trip down the coast was very kind to us, not a lot of wind but some great places full of history. A lot more enjoyable than we thought it was going to be.

Getting the tide right through the Straits of Gibraltar is very important as at one point we had 4 knots going with us. What more could we ask for in Gibraltar, rain, fish and chips for lunch, a Rugby game, England v Tonga in the 'Lord Nelson Bar' all adding up to, one day is enough. Gibraltar has changed into a development site, it is no longer easy to have work done on boats and the chandlery shops are almost non existent.

The weather is perfect so we go down memory lane and cruise 50nm into the Mediterranean along the Costa de Sol as far as Malaga. It has been 5 years since we where here and it had some surprises. The prices have more than doubled in the marinas (Puerto Banus now Euro 130 per night) and harder to get a berth. Resorts and high rise apartments have multiplied.

Always great to catch up with friends, David and Jane Earl collect us and introduce us to Tapas Malaga style in the old town. Intermit and surrounded by hanging food, the bar covered in ready made pots of seafood stew, stuffed peppers and mushrooms all washed down with plenty of red wine.

At Marbella marina we are joined by John and Andrea Connolly and a night of torrential rain as we visit Puerto Banus. Gibraltar for one night, top up with cheap diesel (the only cheap thing) and Morocco here we come, dodging all the ships as we cross the shipping lanes to North Africa.
 
Travelling with two 'look a like' grey Steve Martins and two blonde Andreas we don't exactly blend in. Arriving in the Port of Tangier after four hours crossing the strait we are all very excited, this is different but how different? Hundreds of men and boys line the fishing port waiting for work as we motor pass the numerous colourful fishing boats. The small yacht marina is full so rafting up is the only option, the old Medina rising up in front of us with the sounds of the Minaret ringing out.

We haven't finished mooring and the touts are already there offering their services as guides. Customs and police visit for check in, a procedure that takes place at every port in Morocco. By the time we navigate our way into the Medina, passing all the pestering men, and into the market we are shell shocked. Its one hour before 6pm when Ramadan closes everything down for 2 hours. Ramadan is probably not the best time to be here, fasting all day and eating through the night makes the men grumpy. Restaurants are closed and we have to resort to eating at tourist's spots which are very disappointing. We had not realised this was in place, 21 days of daytime fasting with 10 days to go. A frenzy of people mostly men and we are not made welcome. I went to buy bread and they wouldn't serve me; they would only take the order from Ian and then Andreas face tells a story as we enter the souk, it's claustrophobic, smells of raw meet, spices and olives, you could cut the air. The refuge of an International Hotel was welcoming and beers flowed as we gathered ourselves in this Moroccan style hotel. By the time we are back to the comfort of 'Finisterre' we are a little bewildered and have an Aussie BBQ that night.  

Arranging a tour guide for the next day we enjoy a drive through the green affluent areas over looking the Medina through, palms, bougainvillea and white arches but of course this is only a small part of Tangier, we are soon back in the madness. On one hand it is very fascinating but on the other we are very on guard and very alert. Taking photos is becoming difficult, as I am thumped on the back or given the eye sign.

Happy to leave rounding Cap Spartel Light House where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic and the two currents cause overflows. Asilah, originally a Phoenician port with a 15th century fortified medina built by the Portuguese is our next stop. We are the only yacht to anchor for the night with facilities only for the fisherman. Going in at high tide knowing we have only just enough water under us at low tide with no where else to go is a little worrying. Ashore, inside a high stone wall is a clean white medina, blue doors, hanging bougainvillea and the usual colourful, useless to us, souvenirs.

Showing us around is Zakaria who befriended us while moored along us in Tangier and has met up with us again in Asilah. So good to talk to someone Moroccan and educated you get a better understanding of the place explaining about the faith and lifestyle. The Portuguese left here in the late 15 Hundreds and then they got there independence from France in 1956. Not a lot has changed in 1000 years.

What excitement when Ian and John caught the first fish! Under full sail we motor backwards, thinking we had once again hooked another piece of rubbish, then to see this beautiful big fish. We don't know what it is but the colours of yellow and green glisten in the mid day sun. Pity we had to kill it (winch handle comes in handy) blood everywhere, but now we have eaten it; I have to say it's the best piece of fish I have eaten in along time. Would you believe it but then we caught on our cheapest lure another one the next day, so guess who the expert fisherman is now?

After a very long day at sea approaching Mohammedia at night we are confused by a very strong continuous red light. One minute it seems like it is very close and we alter coarse thinking it's a boat. For 16 miles the light continues to baffle us. It's not until the next day visiting the Hassan 11 Mosque in Casablanca that we learn from here a laser beam shines east towards Mecca. A bit confusing for navigation but we are constantly on the look out as many fishing boats carry no lights and charted shore beacons are not working.

As we are in a safe port we are taking the opportunity to go inland with John and Andrea to visit Cassablanca, Fes and Marrakesh.