Sailing with the Treleavens

Leaving the Windward Islands for the Leeward Islands we are never out of sight of the next island. Perfect conditions, winds of 21 knots on the beam; tide going west, it couldn’t get any better. Between the islands is only 20 - 25 miles of open sea, otherwise you are in the shelter of the land. Loving sailing again we head out of south Martinique to Prince Rupert Bay in Dominica 68 nms north. It is our first long sail in the Caribbean where the wind strength and direction is constant, meaning perfect reaching up and down the islands. 

Dominica, the most undeveloped island in the Caribbean, doesn’t disappoint us on approach with rugged forest covering the volcanic mountains. Independent since 1978, population of only 70,000, the island has not been taken over by tourism. On approach we are greeted by boat boys, sort of like tag, first to claim you look after you for your stay, take you on tours and collect your rubbish, at a charge of course. Providence is our ‘mon’ and takes us on the Indian River cruise. Bloodwood trees line the river with their amazing root formation, hummingbirds, parrots and lizards all live in this ecological friendly environment. Dominica is promoting itself as an eco island and has gained financial support from the EU. The shores are rubbish free and all fishing and diving is restricted by license. Cruising yachts aren’t even allowed to troll along the coast.  

The locals are very friendly, especially the children, they want to touch my hair and even ask for a ride in the inflatable dinghy. It is nice to have a language in common and feel we have come to a very special place of natural wonders. 

By chance, wearing a Sydney Hobart shirt, we meet George Mottl, a well known sailing identity from Sydney staying on the island. Looking very well and traveling and sailing still at 80+. 

Dominica is an English island lying between two French Islands, Martinique to the south and Guadeloupe to the north. As such she was in a very strategic position during the Napoleonic Wars in the 1800,s with lots of forts built by all. Fort Shirley in Prince Rupert Bay is being magnificently restored (EU money) with 17 of the original 34 canons still in place. The fort saw no action as it was very intimidating but the major naval battle between the English and French took place in the channel to the north.                

Having breakfast one morning, we were lucky to sight two whales just at the entrance of the bay. This is the season as they come down to the Caribbean from the Artic and are regular visitors into this idyllic peaceful bay. 

The wind is calling and we should stay longer but Ian wants to move on so we sail to the small Les Saintes Islands only 18 miles north. Part of Guadeloupe we pass stunning turquoise bays and anchor beneath a pretty village on a baron dry landscape. We can’t believe the difference from what we had just left and regret it immediately. Reading our emails George Mottl invites us on a tour of Dominica not realising we have left. It wasn’t a hard decision to accept and plan to set sail early the next morning to return to paradise. 

All in a days work. Up at 6 o’clock we see the sunrise and head south in flat seas. At 8 o’clock we hook a 25 kilo Marlin, blood everywhere; we now have 25 beautiful steaks in the freezer. Ian did an amazing job getting this on board; with the rod bent into a circle, all I wanted to do was cut it free. Meeting up with Heinz and Elizabeth Oser next week, I am sure the steaks won’t last long.  

Anchored by 10 o’clock we met up with George and his friend Martin who lives here. A  Slavic who has operated charter yachts in the Caribbean and has chosen the island to build his eco dream home. They take us on a tour of the interior and the Atlantic coast. Driving through lush banana plantations, orange and grapefruit trees, we come to a rainforest at the foot of Morne Diablotins. By 11 o’clock we are walking a trail that takes us through 100 metre tall century old trees, its rains, naturally, but the fresh cool air is welcome. We are dwarfed and enclosed; daylight high above filtering through a canopy of leaves. It has all survived because it was too difficult to mill commercially.   

Renowned for 365 rivers we walk up and traverse a gentle river of bolder stones to the Syndicate waterfall, one of many spectacular sights. 

Only locals know the secret road that takes you to a special North West coast deserted beach, black sand, white foam breaking sea and all overhung with long coconut palms. Driving south you come into the Carib Territory. Yes a small population of 3000 Caribs survived, they have a culture center village of how they lived and one big boiling pot. When asked about the white man they cooked in them, they said it wasn’t true.  

5 o’clock dinner ‘Swiss Family Robinson’ style tree top, one table only for 4, Indigo Restaurant. Décor of driftwood furniture, open to the birds and sunset, overlooking a lush tropical valley, what more could you ask for. What’s in the garden or trees is what’s on the menu. Fresh grapefruit juice rum punch and ending in coconut cream ice-cream with ginger. What a day, thanks to George and Martin. 

The yachts around us are warning us of a storm up north which has produced a 5 metre swell and will roll through the Caribbean for 3 days. Not pleasant for sailing between islands, we will have to stay put in this magnificent bay for a little longer.

Almost exactly to the day three months later we have our sails up and “oh what a feeling” as the motor is silenced. Our first sail in the Caribbean, there is no horizon; the turquoise sky meets the turquoise sea and with the wind always from the north east our sea trial is exhilarating. Ian is in his element, tacking, hard on into the wind; every angle is sailed to test the rig. One eye on the mast and the other on the depth, the sea is so crystal clear it’s a very airy feeling seeing the bottom as it can be very deceptive.

Monday we collected the mast from Fort de France Port where it was tied to our deck, no other way of transport possible, and then we motored back the 30miles to Marin Harbour. By Wednesday they have it installed and now our time of waiting is nearly over, we will be on our way north by Tuesday 11th after final modifications are made.

For 26 days we never lifted the anchor, we made all our own water and power, so it was a good test to our self sufficiency. Due to the very warm sea, barnacles covered our anchor and our hull looked like the ‘Garden of Eden’ but with the help of local divers we are soon ‘ship shape’ again.

Also holed up beside us is ‘Intrepid’ from NZ and many funny nights spent in each others boat eating delicious roast leg of lamb imported from New Zealand, 60’s music and a wine or two. Keith and Caryl Turner will sail through the Pacific and be back in NZ by the end of November. The bays are full of yachts but not many from down under which is disappointing.

Putting a show on for us, sailing in and out of the anchored cruising yachts are the traditional local fishing craft called ‘Oyle’ now used for racing, a local version of 18 footers but nothing fancy not even a harness, these guys hang out on poles. Tacking can be tricky, as you can see in the photos.

As our progress has been delayed and with only 3 months of the season remaining we have decided to only go as far north as Antigua and Barbuda and then sail back down the islands in early May, straight after Antigua race week.

We will haul the yacht at Prickly Bay, Grenada, for the hurricane season and make up for the lost ground by coming back early in November. By then I will get my head around the “Red, Right Returning” for entering a harbour. For the non boaties, when entering in the Commonwealth and Europe ports the red buoy is on the port side. In the Caribbean they use the American system for buoyage with the red buoy on the starboard side. The rhyme is for you to keep the red buoy on the starboard side otherwise you will end up on a reef.