Guadeloupe - Iles Des Saintes
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The Caribbean has not been exempt from the strange weather that the rest of the world has been experiencing. Also, my photographic days are over for awhile as Ian lost concentration, went swimming with the camera and ended up black and blue, read on.Now is meant to be the dry winter season but we are having high winds and rain squalls most days. We actually haven’t minded because it is still hot and the odd rain cools us down but the long time cruisers and locals say they have never known a season like this one.
We are now sailing in unison with Heinz and Elizabeth Oser who chartered a yacht out of Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe. A very sheltered harbour and marina with a fantastic yacht base for provisioning and plenty of islands for day sailing. Guadeloupe is an interesting butterfly shaped island where one wing is flat and the other mountainous with three groups of small French islands all very close. Our first impression is the beautiful colour of the sea, miles and miles of shallow sky blue coastline, along the southern eastern wing.
Ilet du Gosier is only three miles away, where we anchor for a night, swim and listen to the waves breaking on the reef all night. The town of St Francois at the end of the wing looks interesting. To access the lagoon you have to enter a very narrow entrance through the coral reef. With a strong easterly blowing, we motor 20nms into the big rolling seas hoping that they will not be breaking at the entrance. We are a little edgy as waves break either side of us but once inside the reef the lagoon is a very safe and comfortable anchorage. Locals Philippe and Marianne, friends of the Oser’s, entertain us ashore at the new marina, full of shops and very good restaurants.
Leaving the lagoon, up and over the surf, we now have a great sail to the island of Marie Galante. Twenty miles to the south the island is covered in sugar cane, producing the bulk of the local 59% proof rum and surrounded by golden sandy beaches.
What starts out as a great day doesn’t always end the same way. Here we are anchored in photographic Anse Carnot and I can’t resist swimming to the shore. Ian takes the dinghy and a red bikini is a moment’s distraction. In the mean time, breaking surf picks up the inflatable and sends it sideways tipping Ian into the surf, tearing his hamstring while trying to hold the camera up high and everything turns to custard. By the time I get to him he is in agony and guilty and the red bikini couldn’t have cared less.
Keep walking is the best therapy and the next beach Anse de Mayes is the most beautiful long beach we have seen so far this year. The colour I can’t capture but it will remain in my memory forever.
With the wind behind us we have a fast sail west to a group of islands, Iles des Saintes. Entering between Fort Napoleon and ruins of Fort Josephine the protected main harbour will be home for longer than we had expected. With a cute seaside village, museum, crystal clear water, snorkeling and a flight around the islands we are very happy to shelter here until the winds and big seas subside.
Fort Napoleon has been well restored and is now a naval museum high on the hill above the main town of Bourg de Saintes. It is interesting to see the French side of the naval battle lost to the English in the straits to the south. Apparently the English had a lucky break when the wind changed and they managed to divide the French fleet. Even more disturbing were the models and drawings of the slave ships used to bring the Africans to the sugar plantations.
In the lee of Ilet Cabrit we are able to put a stern line ashore and spend several wonderful days swimming in beautiful clear water observing the colourful coral fish and the dive bombing skills of the pelicans as they swoop in from a great height.
Over the weekend Philippe and Marianne flew out to join Liz and Heinz and we all spend memorable moments eating marlin, drinking rumbos with fresh grapefruit and a special flight over the islands.
Once again we have crossed paths with Aussies Don and Aggie on “Honey Moon” enjoying fresh local lobster at ‘La Fringale’ and trading knowledge.
Bruises disappear in time, cameras can be replaced and wind conditions improve but we are both very well, happy and manage to fill in our days doing nothing.