France August 2008
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What would you prefer me to do, write this letter to you or have another glass of Chateauneuf du Pape wine. Anyone of our vintage will remember this wine as something special from France or was it just the great sounding name we all loved to pronounce?
Two weeks ago we arrived in Paris with our son Ian and picked up our new hire car; a special arrangement for non EU residence, buy and drive for as long as you want and then they take it back to sell second hand tax free. Good deal all round. Next best thing was a Tom Tom GPS navigator, no more divorces just a very pleasant lady saying ‘turn around when possible’, instead of the familiar “you missed the f**king turn!”. To date best invention ever, only problem is I will have to master by the time young Ian leaves.
Paris looked fabulous as ever, perfume filled the air and chocolateries on very corner makes this still a very romantic city. Driving around the Arc de Triomphe is nerve racking as it’s a drive/don’t look around approach. Before we leave Paris we show young Ian the grave of his Great Uncle Basil Collyns who was shot down over Paris in the 2nd World War aged 31. In this civilian cemetery is a special memorial of individual graves of one New Zealander, four Australians and the remaining 40 Canadian and British. All very young airmen, lest we forget.
First destination is Bourras near Angouleme for the wedding of Alexandra Oser and Roberto from Italy. Vineyards cover the countryside near Cognac; we are here for a very special time. Champagne flowed from the time we arrived until we left a week later. What do I remember of the wedding day? Bride and Groom in white arrive at the Town Registry in a Bentley and then arrive by helicopter at the reception beside the Charente River. Black Truffles accompanied every meal and was the most beautiful wedding.
A green change for us now, for the next 2 months before we return to the yacht in November. Looking at the forecast in the Caribbean we are in no hurry as cyclones are forming, fingers are crossed. Heading south to Provence we visit medieval towns, enjoy French cuisine and when we have had enough move on and find a B&B for the night. The best parts are the rural countryside villages on the minor roads as we try to avoid the highways, where we are always sure to find something special.
Highlights are: Sarlat; a quaint “Hansel and Gretel” town in a valley and Domme; a medieval town perched on a hilltop with magnificent views over the region, fortified Carcassonne Chateau and swimming beneath the amazing Roman aquaduct of the Pont du Gard.
As the specialty of the area is fois gras, it is hard to pass up an opportunity to tour a goose and duck farm and see first hand the force feeding (not an old wives tale), it’s been a way of life for a very long time and even though we found it slightly disturbing, it doesn’t stop us enjoying this delicacy.
A very special experience in Arles, we walk in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh and in Les Baux de Provence at the Cathedral d’Images are projections of Van Gogh paintings screened against the white stone walls of a quarry once under a mountain. “Cathedral” is only a name used for the acoustics and beautiful soundtrack that accompany the light show. A very moving experience all round.
The fifth largest spring in the world comes out at Fontaine de Vaucluse and a very refreshing sight to see icy crystal clear water canals. It’s very hot and nothing could be better than hiring a canoe, paddle and swim 8 kilometres, passing water wheels, locks and rapids. The water is so clear we see trout, a beaver swim beneath, ducks feeding on duck weed and beautiful blue birds. Also a beautiful area where acres of lavender grow. Although we have just missed the season, it must be a very special time when the fragrance fills the air.
Now in the Luberon near Aix-en-Provence we are slowing down for awhile; there is a lot to see before we return to Bourras to help pick grapes at the end of September to bottle and probably drink some as well.