Peter and Norman Islands, British Virgins
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Islands only a few miles apart, headsail pulled out we are meandering from island to island. Let me take you on a day in the BVI’s.
Waking in Great Harbour, Peter Island, in crystal clear water, a swim before breakfast is out of the question. The day before when we anchored a big fish looking like a shark came to greet us. Taking up residence under the yacht and peering at me every time I tried to enter the water. My answer to the problem, send Ian in first. By mid morning we are swimming side by side but my eyes never leave him.
Pulling into the bay is the’ Leander’ looking very official with her white ensign flags flying. Last year Prince Charles and Camilla charted this beautiful super yacht and we wonder who might get off.
Heading upwind for three miles to Salt Island where the wreck of the Royal Mail Ship Rhone went down. In 1867 the 310 foot steam ship was anchored safely in Great Bay when an out of season hurricane hit without warning. Trying to flee the islands she hit the southwest end of Salt Island, broke in two and sank taking 124 lives.
An impression below the surface, greets us that we will never forget. Now a dive or snorkel site in 40-80 feet of crystal clear water and only metres from the rock she hit, rest the skeletal remains as if perfectly placed there. The centre drive shaft extends out to deeper waters with ribs extending out to the sides. The propeller is very visible and the huge rudder lying on its side as if still steering her. As I float above motionless, I imagine the sound of hitting the rock, the screams of the people and the roar of the hurricane. A tragedy in such a beautiful place is now a habitat for marine life.
Just half a mile to the north of Peter Island is the infamous ‘Dead Chest Cay’ so named because it resembles a coffin or in pirate talk Dead Chest. Often referred to as ‘Dead Mans Chest’ it was supposedly where the pirate ‘Blackbeard’ marooned 15 of his crew with only a bottle of rum. None survived although some tried swimming to the beautiful bay on Peter Island which now bears the same name and the rhyme written for the occasion “Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum!!” still lives on. Both the book ‘Treasure Island’ and the movie ‘Pirates of the Caribbean” refer to this little cay.
Rolled out headsail we sail to Norman Island, made famous by Robert Louis Stevenson’s book ‘Treasure Island’. Snorkelling the three pirate caves you come away with a different kind of treasure, eye treasure, colourful tropical fish in pristine water. The island is basically uninhabited apart from the 70 yachts taking up the moorings in Bight Bay. Ashore is the’ Pirates Beach Bar’ live music and everyone has a happy ending to another cruising day.
As we lie on the foredeck and gaze at the bright galaxy of stars, mast head lights swaying and listen to the steel band ashore we recount our day and days of past history. Another day passes. We are now back on Peter Island and a few days tied stern to the shore, cacti in various form are growing on the cliffs, aloe vera on the shore line, pelicans entertain us, we are without contact with the world. Who cares!!!!!
Plans are now in place for the rest of the season, so get your atlas out. The Virgins are made up of British, US and Spanish and we will be here for another four weeks exploring. Then we cross to Puerto Rico and sail the south coast then the northern coast of the Dominican Republic. From there north to the Turks and Caicos Islands, back south to the eastern end of Cuba and along her south coast, Cayman Islands and onto Belize in Central America. At the end of May we will leave Cape Finisterre in a marina up the Rio Dulce River in Guatemala for the hurricane season.
It is hard to believe that we still have over 1750nms miles to sail, all with the trade winds behind us. It is all new territory and covers countries not normally visited by the cruising yachts.
Another mystery is solved. The light banging we sometimes hear against the hull at night is none other than turtles drifting into us. It is great to see so many of these beautiful creatures in the sea.
We are noticing the days getting longer and the winter passing. What winter!!!!!!!