Sailing with the Treleavens

From West End on Roatan, Honduras, to the outer atolls of Belize, we have a perfect 80nm daylight sail and manage to hook two beautiful Dorado. As provisions have not been easy, we have become hunters not gatherers. Arriving with the sun behind us, entering the most outer atoll requires a bow watch to negotiate the coral heads; my t-shirt is flapping against my belly in time with my nervousness. Lighthouse Reef Atoll is 40nms outside the Barrier Reef that borders Belize and her hundreds of cays. Here the cobalt blue Caribbean Sea turns in an instant to turquoise blue over the sand. The depth and width through the breaking reef is only metres with clear visibility (too clear) but once inside we weave our way to Half Moon Cay and anchor.

This is the perfect cay; a grove of coconut palms, a red footed booby bird colony, white sand and waters 27 degrees Celsius for snorkelling. Well…almost perfect; just as we are about to jump from the dinghy, a three metre shark passes under us in a depth of 1½ metres. Big, black and whilst only a nurse shark, it stops me from getting wet. I know they are harmless but I have lived in Australia for too long. Ian ignores it and is thrilled to find lobsters everywhere in only 2 metres of water. Unfortunately it is out of season, we have to be content to look at them now.

In the middle of this 24nm long reef is the famous Blue Hole; a perfectly round, very deep hole with all the features of a cave including stalactites at 120 metres. Made world famous by Jacques Cousteau in 1972, his discovery of the stalactites proves it was at one time above the water. It is too shallow to cross the lagoon to the hole in our yacht so we hitch an early morning ride with the park rangers. On arrival I couldn’t believe we had arrived but as you look closer you can see the deep blue perfect circle 150 metres across. We snorkel the rim which is covered in colourful ferns, coral and teaming with exotic fish. My exit is quick as a blue bottle wraps its trailing long tentacles around my legs…..ouch. Ian loves his new found hobby of underwater photography. We are content to just snorkel as a few divers, including one only three months ago, did not return to the surface.

Through sparkling seas, we meander from atoll to atoll, Lighthouse to Turneffe to Glover, until we enter the Barrier Reef which runs the length of the country for 190nms and is 15nms off the coast. It is the largest barrier reef in the western hemisphere and second in the world to our Great Barrier Reef in Australia. Unique to this area are the small islands on the edge of the reef. Saltwater Cay has a perfect resort where you can snorkel out to the edge and then observe the sheer drop deep into the Caribbean Sea.

We meet Ray, a local, who is out here with a group from the USA on a ‘reefology’ tour. On learning we are from Australia he tells us the story of Steve Irwin’s visit to their local crocodiles. Apparently he hopped into the enclosure, as was his habit, and when they chased him he hurdled the fence claiming “crikey they are more ferocious than ours”.

This is the season to visit the whale sharks which come every year to feed off the spawn of the snapper. Growing to over 14 metres in length, we just missed seeing them as they are moon dependent and we were a day too late. Next time!!

Belize is a very small enclave wedged in between Mexico and Guatemala. Not of interest to the Spanish during their quest for gold and silver in the early 1600’s, it became a haunt for English pirates and subsequently became a British possession known as British Honduras. In 1981 it converted to the independent nation of Belize. Unlike other Central American countries and due to their British heritage, they have had very stable government. The current English speaking population of only 300,000 people is a mix of Creole (European and African, mestizo (European and Amerindian) and of course full blooded Mayans.

The government has developed the country as an Eco friendly destination preserving her national treasures. Over 45% of the country is national park protecting the Mayan ruins, forest and especially jaguars which still roam wild and were idolised in Mayan culture. The reef has similarly been protected with many parks to preserve this beautiful area. Eco lodges are to be found everywhere. Believe it or not we are still in the Caribbean with this area known as either the North West Caribbean or Continental Caribbean.

Turning south there are so many cays to explore; some are covered in mangroves and some a circle of white sand with coconut palms. We can’t enter the Rio Dulce until May 25th because of a very shallow sandbar at its entrance and we can only enter on a high spring tide, so will stay in Belize until that time.

Placencia is our main landfall where Moorings have a large fleet of charter yachts and we suggest you consider cruising Belize sometime, especially in a catamaran. The feeling is like being back in the Eastern Caribbean with colourful Rastafarians, cottages with thatched roofs and reggae music filling the bars at night. Nearby is the upmarket resort Turtle Inn owned by Francis Ford Coppola (of The Godfather fame), which along with another one in the mountains are run as eco resorts.

The Sapodilla Cays are the most southerly islands on the barrier reef and it’s very nice to spend our last days here in such idyllic surroundings. After seven months sailing 3200nm through the Caribbean Islands, with wonderful following winds, we are now motoring our last days as it is steaming hot, there is no wind and the seas temperature is now at 28 degrees Celsius.

As we depart Belize a new experience awaits us up the Rio Dulce in Guatemala. We will be swapping turquoise seas for the huge fresh water river, sandy islands for a green jungle and fish for monkeys and maybe a jaguar. But as the hurricane season approaches ‘Cape Finisterre’ will be well protected here.

Our 18 hour overnight sail to Grand Cayman Island from Cuba was heightened by the sight of the Southern Cross on the bow in the night sky. It’s a great feeling; we are now on the home run. Cayman was never on our radar but it turned into a very pleasant stopover. In the middle of nowhere, this small flat island sits surrounded by pristine waters which are the clearest we have seen anywhere. Buoys can be picked up free of charge to protect the coral and towering behind us are up to seven cruise ships visiting daily including some being diverted away from Mexico.

The day we arrive is the Batabano Carnival Parade with colourful costumes, loud reggae music and locals having a lot of fun. This is the one time of the year the very religious locals let their hair down and show a bit of skin. Cayman is full of expats from every corner of the world plus a mix of Caribbean colour from other islands.

The Caymans are made up of three islands with Grand Cayman, Georgetown, as its capital. Another discovery by Columbus but how he stumbled onto it is any ones guess and it never achieved anything until it became a tax haven in the 1960s. Now home to over 700 banks, it is also home to over 70% of the world’s hedge funds. At least you know they are comfortable while they loose all our money. There is no income or company tax but the tax on all goods is very high to compensate.

Expecting Seven Mile Beach (its actually only 4 miles) to be lined with high rise apartments, we are pleasantly surprised to find building restrictions limit developments to five stories only. The stylish resorts are few in number and in my opinion this is one of the nicest Caribbean Resort beaches we have been too. After the austerity of Cuba it is nice to spoil ourselves with lunch at the Ritz Carlton pool side bar. Considering Grand Cayman was devastated by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 they have made an amazing recovery. No one was prepared for it as they had not experienced one for over 80 years.

Continuing to make friends with fellow sailors, we meet Yaron on his small catamaran in Cayo Largo. A German expat doctor on Grand Cayman he often embarks on a quick sail across to Cayo Largo (135nms away) for a long weekend. After sailing back together he invites us to his beachside house with his wife and young family for a BBQ lunch. It was nice to feel home comforts again. They love it so much they will never return home.
Swimming with stingrays is a must and quite a tourist attraction. On a shallow sand bank in North Sound, huge stingrays over a metre wide interact with humans in their natural environment. Too shallow for us to take the yacht, we join the ‘Red Sail’ 60 foot catamaran out to the sand bar. My nerves are at a high as the first thing I do is step on a ray’s razor tail that slides its way out. These huge creatures swim in and out of our legs and one takes a fancy to me as I snorkel. Coming up under me, as if to take me for a ride, I miss my beat, gulp in sea water and can’t get away fast enough. An awesome experience; they are harmless and in fact they seemed to just want a cuddle.

Our last big sail of the season is a two day 350nm passage to the Bay Islands on the north coast of Honduras. The weather window is excellent with 15 knots predicted from the east. Weaving our way out between the cruise ships, the gennaker is set and stays up for the next 24 hours….nice. Then it starts to blow and under reefed sails we have a very fast run to the Bay Islands.

During the sail we have two stowaways onboard. Several trips this year we have had bird’s lost at sea land on us and come for the ride. Unfortunately they are usually very tired, dehydrated and don’t survive. This time they are two beautiful gold finches and no matter what I did for them they both died.

Our land fall is the island of Roatan and slowing down so that we arrive in daylight we once again have to enter a bay surrounded by a coral reef that falls off to very deep water quickly. The dog leg channel into French Cay Harbour as the full moon disappears and the sun rises is out of the ordinary. Poorly marked with sticks taped with faded red and green we weave our way into the very sheltered harbour behind a reef. We later learn that all the other cruisers request assistance to be guided in by the marina manager.

The Bay Islands of Honduras are a very special destination. Marketed as a diving haven it is renowned as one of the best in the world. All the resorts are basic and cater specifically for the diving fraternity, novices and experts alike. The largest fish in existence (up to 40ft), the whale shark, is often spotted here. It is also an idyllic cruising ground with many sheltered bays behind reefs. Although part of Spanish speaking Honduras, the majority of the locals speak English as the British used the pirate haven to relocate the troublesome slaves of St Vincent and Jamaica.

It is a very laid back area and when we try to check into the country we find that the port captain is away from the island for a week and the immigration office is closed. No one has a clue what to do so we just smile and agree.

West End, on the north western corner, is protected by a low reef and here we find the mecca for diving and snorkeling. Why is it so good apart from the green crystal waters? The topography is interesting with sheer drops, there’s no current and lots of healthy coral swarming with fish. We snorkel and even though it’s deep we can see very clearly.

Ashore on the sand road are many bars and restaurants; some out on stilts over the water. There is a Thai restaurant where we celebrate my birthday.

Next stop Belize.

My most lasting memory of Cienfuegos is the contrast of beautiful buildings to people still living in a time warp. Arriving in Marina Jagua on Punta Gorda, we are met by stately old buildings that were once the waterfront ‘weekenders’ of the rich pre revolution era. A Frenchman from Louisiana founded the city in 1819 and he encouraged others to join him from Bordeaux, which means the architecture has a wonderful French flavour. The centre is only ten minutes away and our transport is horse and cart. “Clip clop, clip clop” we canter down the wide tree lined Main Avenue passing classic cars and more heritage housing.

This place is so very different to Santiago de Cuba we wonder if we are still in Cuba? But there are reminders; shops are depleted of goods and people queue for bread and quota of eggs. Finding the run down 50’s style ice cream parlour, we observe the locals queued down the street but tourists take priority and don’t have to wait. I guess we are paying more. Don’t expect 50 flavours…only three on offer with one scoop of each in a big bowl with a very old spoon made from light aluminium that’s been battered and bent.

Once again our trip to the market for fresh produce is frustrating but Pip and Geoff enjoy the banter. Pip spies an old women discreetly holding one egg and is called over to see hidden under the shelf a bag full. The ever-present flies are all over the meat and Pip reassures Geoff that they are only houseflies. The leg of pork is purchased, Ian is ripped off, but the smell of stuffed roast pork out on the next island makes it all worthwhile.

Cienfuegos was hit badly by Hurricane Dennis in 2005 but UNESCO came to the rescue with funds to help with the restoration and maintain the integrity of this world heritage site. Although a beautiful city we still found Santiago de Cuba to be more of a living city with all the music, history, and hustle and bustle.

From here we sail out to the next group of islands, Archipielago de los Canarreos and Pip and Geoff’s final destination, Cayo Largo. As we leave, we pass the never finished Soviet nuclear power station; thank goodness as they positioned it right on the waters edge. With the wind astern of us, the gennaker is set for the 45nm sail to Cayo Guano del Este. Between our destination and us, is a naval exclusion zone set by Castro after the disastrous Bay of Pigs invasion by Cuban exiles and sponsored by the USA in 1960. We take our chances and cross safely through the zone.

Arriving at the deserted island for the night we anchor under an amazing rocket ship looking lighthouse. The night is memorable; with little protection the wind picks up and waves toss us about, testing our anchor. As long as I can see that lighthouse out of my starboard porthole I get some sleep but we all have a bad night. Geoff reports that at about 2am the lighthouse lost its solar power for a period. All a bit scary, we leave early to Cayo Largo the famous resort island of Cuba.

Remember the song ‘Kokomo’ by the Beach Boys. They refer to Cayo Largo up there with other beautiful spots in the Caribbean. As we enter inside the reef, the renowned beach of Playa Sirena looks fabulous. We anchor off and enjoy the rest of the day in this area of many shades of blues on an expanse of white sand.

Ashore we arrange a tour of the ‘famous’ resorts and although interesting they are run down but all packed with tourists, mainly French Canadians or from many Spanish countries. Our tour is short and we can’t wait to get back on board and head out into the fabulous waters of the bay to enjoy the best mojito’s and get sand under our feet.

Pip and Geoff fly home and we are own again. We had a special time cruising through all the Cuban islands drinking too much rum and saturating ourselves with fresh seafood.

Every port we have called at we have been checked, searched and asked for more paperwork. As this is our last port of call and although all the officials have been very courteous, it’s a bit of an intrusion especially when the smelly sniffer dog is brought onboard as we check out. We assume to see if any locals are hidden on board.

We have loved Cuba for all its nuisances and would highly recommend all cruisers and others to visit, especially before it opens up. Our hope for the future, which is also the desire of all the locals we spoke to, that the rush to capitalism is controlled and follows a European model rather than the excesses of the USA.

Cubans are looking for change in the near future. They believed in the revolution and equality for all, which didn’t exist before, they made the most of it and lived happily with what they had, but progress has passed them by. Living standards would have to be the worst for the majority but they are all are given free accommodation, food, education, health and a guaranteed low wage. But this is now not enough. Nothing is wasted and even our empty plastic bottles where treasure to the first person as we left the dock.

Cubans are very welcoming and we soon became part of the underground black market for fuel, produce and wine. We were never very comfortable with this especially when I had to hide in guard century boxes and toilets to obtain fresh food and Ian had to collect fuel in the dinghy covered in a tarpaulin. Hustlers in the main cities (normally well educated people trying to earn the CUC currency) wear you down. They are desperate for our money but we can’t help everyone. When finally Americans can travel and sail to these shores it will greatly change things.

It has been a very special experience for us and some day we will return.

Due to the swine flu in Mexico we have been advised not to sail there. Other countries will be difficult to enter if we visit the source of the flu. Not a problem, we just sail in a different direction. We are now sailing due south 145nms to the Cayman Islands, SW to the Bay Islands of Honduras and then up the Rio Dulce of Guatemala. If things settle down we may try to visit Belize which boarders Mexico.