Christmas Eve turkey dinner and prawn cocktail at ‘Jimbos’ with Peter and Nannie and then BBQ, Pavlova and trifle for lunch the next day; we are having a very delicious unplanned Christmas. We all sail our own direction and may never meet again but we stay in touch.

At least being stuck in the lagoon has had its advantages for Ian. Parts and repair facilities in Simpson Lagoon have been excellent and along with the duty free shopping in Philipsburg we now have a region free DVD player. Being able to buy “original copy mon” the latest movies have kept us very entertained when it was too wet to go ashore. The copies still state about it being illegal to copy. Just another Caribbean way!

Some of you will remember Bevin Koppel from New York who bought the maxi ‘Congere’ to Sydney for the 50th Sydney/Hobart Race in 1995. Passing through St Martin on a cruise ship we had time to catch up with him and Maureen to talk over old times. Ian crewed on the 51ft ‘Congere’ in 1972 racing in the Newport Bermuda race and from there continuing on to Bayona Spain in the Trans Atlantic Race. It is amazing how old sailing friends always keep in contact with each other.

More Australians anchor near us; Cameron Hunter from Melbourne has just crossed the Atlantic in his Amel 54 ‘Reborn V’. He read my book two years ago, sold his business, bought a yacht and with his wife and three young children sailed the Med and are now sailing the Caribbean. It’s great to see a young family having such a wonderful adventure together for a few years.

The sunshine returns, the trade winds have settled and St Martin has some very beautiful beaches and we can’t wait to get out of the lagoon. Hiring a car we survey this small island which is only 7miles x 7miles. As we leisurely walk the colourful umbrellas and the white sands of Orient Beach, a male figure, in sun hat only, is proudly showing his … umm…… manhood, what I can only describe as, not being of a normal size !!!!!! The Rolf Harris song ‘Jake the fake’ instantly comes to mind. Feeling slightly inferior and fearing sun burnt scrotums, tits and bare bits, the signs saying no clothes, no cameras we quickly make an exit. Any girl requiring the ‘ouch’ photo, apply here.

Long flowing dresses and dinghies don’t always go together. New Years Eve and Anse Marcel is the perfect setting ashore; luxury resort, space lighting, music and fireworks. All dolled up, I missed my footing to the dock and fell into the harbour. If I had had a drink or two I might have seen the funny side of it but I was going out, not coming home. After a change of clothes, the rest of the night was all glamour, fireworks light up our yacht and we arrived home safely; welcome 2009.

We spend New Years Day in calm blue waters and we round the top of the island to Ile Pinel. Sand peninsular, azure seas, beautiful people, lobster for lunch; what could be more Caribbean? Nancy on www.sail-world.com mentions million dollar views; well this could be one of many for us this year.
Meeting up with American cruisers and getting information about where we are headed is exciting. After many changes we almost have a plan together on our direction for the rest of the season as all of friends keep saying “don’t come home”, we don’t plan on it.

It was dark; we were anchored in a bay with no other boats around. Ian had gone ashore to the Reggae Beach Bar, on his own, to send our last letter to you all. Thinking it was time he returned, I looked outside to see if the bar was closing and saw our dinghy floating out to sea! I did the ‘fish wife call’ and got his attention. Realising that he had no dinghy and with no other boats around he grabbed a surf ski and paddle. After falling off before getting the hang of it, he finally reached the yacht (luckily he had left the computer ashore).

By this stage the dinghy was out of sight so we up anchor. After circling the bay, we head out to sea with no luck, so we decide it could have been washed ashore to the other side of the bay. Ian wants to anchor on the lee shore and get on that surf ski thing again to look for it around the rocky shoreline. I can’t convince him not to, so on goes the life jacket, line to yacht and he paddles off towards the shore. Not 15 metres later, over he goes and I hear “I’m in trouble now”. The life jacket inflates automatically and nearly strangles him and then prohibits him from climbing back on the ski. Managing very quickly to let some air out of the jacket, he climbs back on the ski and I pull him back to the yacht.

This is why I am telling you about this stupid situation. Life jackets and automatic gas bottles. Ian’s not a very big man but if he was it could have been a very different situation. He is also lucky his years selling and demonstrating life jackets meant he knew exactly what to do very quickly.

We up anchor and return to the shelter side of the bay but without dinghy. Ian manages, after numerous calls, to get the security man at the bar on the phone. He runs along the beach and rocks while we follow his torch. Finding the dinghy very quickly, he starts the motor and returns it to us. A reward and a flash of white teeth; at least someone is having a good evening.

Our next three islands (St Barts, St Martin/Sint Maarten, and Anguilla) are only miles apart but so different, offering such a splendid variety even down to the currencies used.

St Bart is all luxury, expensive shopping and superb restaurants surrounded by a small unspoilt island. Everything a girl could want to celebrate 30 years of marriage can be found here. So what do we do? No need to shop for diamonds or pearls, we hire a car and look for the perfect lunch spot. ‘Nikki Beach Restaurant’ at Baie St Jean has lapping waves, white sand and breathtaking turquoise waters. For the evening we choose ‘Caviar Bar’ where we relax on cushions, drinking Champagne. The only thing missing is our friends, family and readers… love to you all, thank you for being part of our lives!

Gustavia is the main port/town with every major fashion house (Gucci, Dior) and watch labels (Rolex, Cartier) will be wall to wall with super yachts by Christmas. The port is small, so yachts like us anchor out. Be in early otherwise you have to anchor too far out unprotected to the big swell. Our first impression is the sky blue colour of the very clear water and very inviting. St Barts, or to use its correct name St Barthelemy, after Columbus’ brother, was initially settled by the French, then the Swedes and then back to the French. The architecture is a mixture of design and colour of both cultures. Then in the 1960s, at the beginning of tourism, the locals grabbed hold of the concept and has never looked back.

Around the corner is Anse de Colombier, a nature reserve bay. From now on laid moorings will become more frequent protecting the ocean floor. Here turtle heads frequently return to the surface alongside the yacht for air. A storm to the north has created a large swell so after another uncomfortable night in rolling seas we set sail to the island of St Martin. We have a fast 25nm reach to enter on the French side; less bureaucracy than the Dutch side.

One island, two countries - Sint Maarten is Dutch and St Martin is French. This is an island like no other islands because it has inland water, Simpson Lagoon, and can only be entered by lifting bridges. Since we have come in on the French side, the yacht must stay on their half of the waterway although we, in our dinghy, can go anywhere without passports. Being in here has its advantages with the main one being the shelter, it has been very windy (a time known as the Christmas winds) and to have no worries for a while will be nice.

It is very commercial ashore with the International Airport, duty-free everything and big nautical shops servicing all the marinas full of every boat imaginable. Ian has a list of fix it, fill it or replace it to keep him busy.

Everywhere we go we always look for fellow New Zealanders or Australians and at last in the lagoon we spy a Swan 48 flying an Aussie flag. Owned by a CYCA Youth Academy sailor with his CYCA member family on board, Shane Diethelm has just sailed down from the USA with his new purchase. With him are his parents, Basil and Angela, and brother Tristan.

The 3rd island, Anguilla, is the unspoilt gem of them all and that’s where we will be for Christmas Day and a return to a slower pace.

From the West Indies we wish you all a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

From Antigua there are many islands to visit next, Montserrat to the west, the island that erupted only 13 years ago and only half of the island can be visited. To the North West is St Kitts and Nevis but we decide to go north to Barbuda which is 27nm away. Isolated, difficult to navigate, not exactly in line with where we won’t to go and the reason not many yacht go there. The main attraction for us is a colony of migrating Magnificent Frigatebirds that breed here and our timing is perfect for the mating season, you will see why later in the letter.

Our last windward sail is in depths of only 22 metres all the way, passing reefs but that’s the easy bit. Five miles out and as far as the eye can see its turquoise water, white beaches for miles and a very low landscape. The pilot book recommends that Cocoa Bay is a good anchorage behind a reef. On arrival we see no pass through the coral reef but at an angle there is one. Heart in mouth stuff as Ian navigates into the bay, I am on the bow spotting bommies with hand signals and we zigzag all the way in. We passed so close to one, we could have picked off a sea urchin, scaring the hell out of us. Once inside we didn’t like the idea of only being able to leave when the sun is behind us because this is the only time you can spot the coral heads.

Our new found anchorage is off Cocoa Point Resort and paradise found. We are the only yacht and with the resort not open, we are the only foot print in the fine white sand beach that’s six miles long. Soaking up the atmosphere along with an orange sunset, it’s a privilege to be here. Twenty miles north along the coast we pass the pink sand of 11 Mile Beach and anchor where we are picked up by a guide in an open boat, to take us up the mangrove lagoon to the Frigatebird colony.

From a distance we can see the sky is black with circling birds and on arriving I have never seen such a beautiful sight. Nestled on top of the mangroves, thousands of Frigatebirds, the male’s breast swollen into a red neck sitting on the eggs, baby chicks being fed, fighting over food, squawking and mating noises. We sit quietly and come in close; this is amazing, so natural but wild.

The Frigatebird has a wing span of six feet, the greatest area in proportion to their weight of any bird and cannot enter the sea because of no natural oil in their feathers. They feed by skimming the surface and harass other birds to give up their food (hence their name Frigatebird or Man of War) and as they drop it, they swoop it up mid air. They look awkward on land, but in the air very graceful as they glide with their huge wing span in the trade winds.

Regrettably we have to leave this absolutely beautiful peaceful place. I try and stay longer but the call of the wind and Ian sees a fast run down hill to St Kitts 60nm. 30 knot winds and we are wing and wing with the headsail poled out surfing off waves. Ian always has the pole attached independent to the headsail. So every time a rain squall comes through it is very easy to reef the sail back in with pole still staying in place. As the wind abates its just a matter of rolling it out.

Getting close to land with a three metre swell running I am getting nervous. We have to sail through the Narrows, the passage between Nevis and St Kitts which is littered with reefs and gets very shallow, down to eight metres. The yacht draws two metres and my math’s tells me it’s going to be touch and go if we dip on a wave at the wrong time. Under half a mile the sea goes from 600 to 8 metres but as it turns out the swell got less, not more, thank goodness.

St Kitts on arrival at the main port of Basseterre is initially disappointing; don’t believe all you read in an advertisement. The marina is not for yachts as stated , the yachts in the harbour are rolling 20 degrees and that leaves not a lot of choices for the night. Persistent Ian nags the dock master to leave his home and finally he lets us stay on the wall. Cruise ships arrive every day and their life boats take priority bringing in the hundreds of passengers. They find us another berth (They love their cricket here and especially the Australians, Cricket day means a public holiday).

Tours are for the cruise ships and one way to fix that is to join them. Unique to this island is the sugar cane railway which circumnavigates the island. Built in 1905 it is the only original cane train in the Caribbean, but only for tourism now as the sugar cane market collapsed with the withdrawal of subsidies by the EU.

The locals are very happy friendly people with not a lot to worry about. Despite the fact that this was the first British Island settled in the Caribbean it does not show any benefits of this. Without tourism it would struggle. It is a pity that they do not utilise this very fertile island more to supply produce to the neighbouring islands.

Our next island is St Barts to the north, the winds still up so we find a bay on the southern end of St Kitts and anchor, we in no hurry. A diver snorkels around our yacht and comes up with 12 huge conch shells. Still not used to the locals collecting and eating them, we watch the meat being removed but we still have no urge to accept his offer to try one; although he does tell us it is even nicer to eat than lobster.

Ashore in Cockelshell Bay is the Reggae Beach Bar and our first Christmas carols to the Reggae beat. No problem passing the time here, the sign says ‘Rush Slowly’ and Ian soon has them all talking about the history of cricket.

The last part of her voyage took us to Guadeloupe and through the river canal that divides the butterfly shaped island. We explored Basse Terre, the mountainous side, with a Rainforest National Park and cascading waterfalls. The wet season is over but the rivers are torrential and a swim in fresh water is a welcome massage.

Pointe-A Pitre, the main port, is a surprisingly pretty town with colourful shops and no open drains although the market turns out a little differently. The yellow and red tartan costumed local with bright orange lipstick is worth a photo. As Ian plans to purchase a pineapple, I take up the camera but the mood swings and as Ian declines the pineapple he is pelted with mangoes. A good laugh but by the look of the locals faces, it’s all happened before.

Back at the marina we are surprised at how different a place can be at a different time of the year. Our last visits have been mid to late winter and the sea is a beautiful blue. Now its late summer and the marina waters are brown and smelly. It’s still dark at our 4am wakeup call but we have to make the only time the two canal bridges open. Passing the mangrove sided river we navigate the green and red lights to reach the open sea on the north coast. Our two metre draft is pushing mud at times but we get through with the company of four catamarans who have no problem except the first green navigation light after the first bridge is now reversed as we are suddenly exiting the river not entering it.

We are all off to Antigua 40 miles away so unbeknown to them a race is on! Giving them a little handicap we anchor off a coral reef for breakfast. In perfect sailing conditions we overtake three of the four catamarans… Ian’s excuse for second place was that he had to slow down to get the 10 kilo Dorado on board half way across.

Antigua is always a safe haven with its two naturally enclosed harbours, English and Falmouth. More superyachts and mega motorboats appear everyday for the beginning of the season. For the young adventures of the sea, go get your certificates, there’s plenty of work on these vessels. Patricia Burnett-Stuart, with whom we stayed in France, is here visiting her daughter Julia who works on a super cruiser. The nights are long for the younger crowd, first meeting up at Skullduggery Bar for an Espresso Martini and onto one of the many other bars.

Espresso Martini
1 part Crème de Cacao, 1 part Tia Maria, 1 part Vodka, 1 part Espresso. Add all ingredients into cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain into large cocktail glass.

The Antiguan Sunday starts at the surf beach Half Moon Bay. Cars are backed to the white sand, huge speakers beat out the reggae music so if it’s a quite day at the beach you desire, then forget it. In the evening it’s up to Shirley Heights and the steel band beating out and a rum punch in hand.

The versatile lime - always plentiful and always a basket full at hand. A native of the East Indies it came to these islands on ships to stave off scurvy. Thriving in the tropics, there are several types but the one I look for is larger, juicer and slightly sweeter called Citrus Xlatifolia. Used in most recipes from cocktails, marinating fish to health remedies, its uses are endless. Instead of salt try a squeeze of lime to enhance the meal or try some in whipped cream it will help keep its firmness.

Life is not always to plan, the smell of smoke and we find the water maker has fried some wires. The look of “I have something to fix” and on goes the electrical hat. Getting professionals or for that matter someone to work is impossible so it is a learning process as we go with the help of onshore advise.

Lord Nelson spent time in English Harbour while his ship was being built and said “when she is finished I will be under sail and leave all the mosquitoes behind”. I couldn’t agree more.

Arriving in Martinique we are astounded to see so much carnage on the shores of Anse Mitan, an area where we spent a lot of time last year. Le Ponton, a restaurant, and the marina have gone! All that remains are the concrete piles and the shell of a restaurant. The beautiful beach is now covered in stones with several shipwrecks on the point. It will be a long time before the marina and customs office is replaced.

It is interesting to note that this did not come up on a weather forecast report and some islands like Martinique got a three day warning whilst Dominica got no warning at all. In Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, even more boats are now stranded ashore in addition to the rusting ships still here after a hurricane 8 years ago. How would you feel if you woke to a ship in your backyard or a mast through your balcony? It’s amazing how the locals just take it in their stride, clean up, and life goes on.

Leaving the humidity, the warm waters and with some relief from the trade winds filling in, we continue to sail north. The Martinique Channel was exciting; I can’t believe I just said that… I was made to feel bad about the odd little squawk as the auto helm fought against a 35 knot gust round up. Waves that break under us and flick the stern don’t impress me but we have a fast run and nothing to worry about really.

One highlight for Janey has been seeing the contrast from island to island. From prestigious Mustique where rock and movie stars alike have holiday mansions & Basils Bar on the beach is all very perfectly peaceful and then a 2 hour sail to Bequia where we are back to being harassed by locals & competing bar music by night.

It’s a day sail to St Lucia and we take the eastern side of St Vincent to find some wind. A barracuda is caught, filleted and eaten in hours but the huge marlin that danced on the water was soon gone, lure and all!

In every anchorage we find interesting snorkelling. Peaked mountains run directly down creating a wall of interesting life below the sea. Taking some old bread stuffed in our swimmers we create our own aquarium of fish with the sea a beautiful transparent blue all around us.

In Marigot Bay, St Lucia, is our favourite Caribbean restaurant to date. The ‘Rainforest Hideaway’ is set in a green lit lagoon surrounded by mangroves and mosquitoes. The uninvited invisible mosquitoes have been a battle on most of the islands but thanks to mesh on all hatches we sleep wondering why these monsters ever evolved.
Rodney Bay Marina where the ARC Race finishes has been rebuilt since we were here last year, and with the race starting again from the Canary Islands in two weeks it should be finished just in time for the next 200 plus fleet of cruisers and racers.

Sitting high in a Dominica rainforest is ‘Indigo’, a Swiss Family Roberson style art gallery & single table restaurant built up in the trees. Drinking rum cocktails, we watch the sun set down the valley as birds flit in and out and the big green native parrot is heard. Marie, a French chef and artiste, is married to local Clem who made all the furniture out of dried branches. Janey, as have Johnny Depp and Orlando Bloom before her, walked ‘up the garden path’ to visit the long drop toilet. The last ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ was filmed here and they visited this peaceful, bohemian, wooded paradise many times.

The islanders are a mixture of the many cultures that have inhabited the islands over the last 1,000 years. The original inhabitants, the Arawak Indians, lived here peacefully until the Caribs arrived and ate them. Then along came the Africans and East Indians forced into slavery. Added to the mix are the British, French, Spanish and Dutch settlers who ruled the islands and provided the languages spoken from island to island today. Christopher Columbus was responsible for the island names still in use.

Creole food is also from an infusion of the different cultures so this too varies from island to island. Whilst I’ve found the local produce to be limiting at times, it is always interesting. At the moment we are in the season of avocadoes, bigger than you could ever imagine them to be and I’d like to share with you my version of Guacamole Creole style.

Scoop ½ an avocado per person into a bowl. Per avocado, add the juice of 1 lime, chilli sauce to taste, a crushed clove of garlic, half a handful of chopped spring onion and half a teaspoon of Columbian curry or cumin. Blend together with a fork (do not mash). Serve with a rum punch at dusk. I suggest 4 parts freshly squeezed pink grapefruit, 2 parts white rum and 1 part honey. Mix the honey and the rum to dissolve before adding the pink grapefruit.

Enjoy!

Since leaving Sydney three months ago we have been traveling by car around France taking in the wine areas. Loved it all but we would swap the highways for the seaways any day.

Highlights were the Champagne and Burgundy areas where we learnt such a lot, but when it came to one of our last dinners and I made the comment “I think I am over wine” the reply from Ian was “No! Never!” Grape picking in the Charente and making the wine was also fantastic. All sounds a bit decadent considering the financial state of the world, but the best thing for us is no papers and no TV; life goes on.

There’s always a toilet story. Always avoiding those squat ones, Ian got caught out in an emergency in Italy; before his bum was down he had missed the target. Not a good look and spent some considerable time cupping water and throwing it up the wall.

Talking of naughty bits we also saw the “Picasso and the Masters” exhibition in Paris and we never knew the extent of promiscuity in his paintings. On arriving before opening time the queue is already a 2 hour wait. Ian has another one of those genuine urgent moments and jumps the queue to use the toilet. Once inside, he purchases tickets, gets me from the long line and bingo we are in. To see so many great paintings exhibited beside Cezanne, Van Gogh, Goya and many others, show where he got his inspiration for a modern prospective. It is not to be missed if you are in Paris.

Now back to Grenada - the Spice Island; nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cocoa, vanilla, and ginger are all grown on this island that’s 18 km wide and 34 km long. The population of 70,000 is mostly African with some Europeans making a second home here. Despite its past political upheaval, we found it to be a relaxed tropical island set in an environment friendly country. Wonderful to see a road sign grafted ‘Thank you America for saving us’. The most impressive building would have to be the cricket stadium thanks to the Chinese needing a vote for their Beijing Olympic bid.

Cape Finisterre was clean and back in the water very quickly mostly so we could get the air-conditioner working. With humidity very high, temperatures in the 30s day and night, it’s hot and the trade winds have not arrived yet. It’s not exactly working conditions either so Ian has the antifouling and boat polished by the local workers. Spice Island Marine has been very professional and we would recommend them to anyone leaving a yacht here.

Anchored in Prickly Bay, we are surrounded in this blue water cove by beautiful modern homes and fabulous gardens full of bougainvillea and anything tropical. Ian spends a few days getting sails up and fixing a few minor areas of corrosion. Janey, our daughter, arrives to join us for 3 weeks on our travels north, 350nm, to Antigua.

A drive around the island reveals shanty houses mixed with luxury and a few resorts dot the island. High on a peninsular overlooking more peninsulas and coves, we are invited by Billy, Patricia and Ian McKinney for dinner. From this gorgeous house we watch the vivid sun set turn bright red and then total darkness. Very tempting to stay forever but the sunsets will continue to enthrall us on our way north.

One last thing before we leave Grenada is to see the sculptures under the sea. They are not exactly easy to find as we snorkel from bay to bay and then at last a very haunting sight when we do. Sculptures of skeletons, bodies, heads and a circle of children dot the ocean floor.

Our first day sailing north is flat seas and a breeze from the north east. Water temperature is 29 degrees and not all that refreshing but it’s great to be back at sea. Our destination is Union Island of the Grenadines; our favourite cruising area in the Windward Islands. On the way we anchor off Morpion Islet, a white sandbank with a diameter of 30 metres, a single thatched palm umbrella and surrounded by heavenly clear turquoise water. There are too many choices in this area of white sand beaches and small islands. In my dreams I will return as a guest to the stunning Palm Island Resort.

The only thing to do in this heat is swim and Tobago Cays, one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world, the place to swim with the turtles. Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau Island is divine and to top it off we dine on fresh lobster cooked superbly by Ian on the BBQ. Two of our last three meals have been lobster; why not when it’s cheaper than steak! When it comes to negotiating the price Ian informs them it’s a recession but the blank expression can only mean “What’s that?”

Our plan this season is to sail the areas we have already covered relatively quickly to Antigua and from then on slowly through to the St Martin group, British and US Virgins, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Turks and Caicos Islands, north coast of Cuba and then a large number of the islands in the Bahamas. We will then leave the yacht for the hurricane season at end of May 2009 on the US coast north of Carolina.

Looking for a cooler change!

We have arrived in Martinique on route to the yacht in Grenada and were astounded to wake up in the morning on the shores of Anse Mitan to see absolute carnage. The restaurant and marina Le Ponton has gone. All that remains are the concrete piles and a shell of a restaurant. The beach near by is mainly stones with several wrecks on the points. The resort inside the collapsed breakwater around the corner has several wrecks on the beach and the exclusive appartments there are closed. All this was caused not by wind but just 3 to 4 metre waves created by the hurricane 250 nms away.

This is the 4th time in 10 years that Le Ponton has been destroyed and with no insurance this time he has retreated to the golf club to open a restaurant. It will be a long time before the marina is replaced if ever.

We spent a long time in this bay and it is sad to see all the damage. But it is amazing how the locals just take it in their stride and life goes on.
It proves to us that taking care in storing your yacht safely during the hurricane season is so important.

Two weeks ago we arrived in Paris with our son Ian and picked up our new hire car; a special arrangement for non EU residence, buy and drive for as long as you want and then they take it back to sell second hand tax free. Good deal all round. Next best thing was a Tom Tom GPS navigator, no more divorces just a very pleasant lady saying ‘turn around when possible’, instead of the familiar “you missed the f**king turn!”. To date best invention ever, only problem is I will have to master by the time young Ian leaves.

Paris looked fabulous as ever, perfume filled the air and chocolateries on very corner makes this still a very romantic city. Driving around the Arc de Triomphe is nerve racking as it’s a drive/don’t look around approach. Before we leave Paris we show young Ian the grave of his Great Uncle Basil Collyns who was shot down over Paris in the 2nd World War aged 31. In this civilian cemetery is a special memorial of individual graves of one New Zealander, four Australians and the remaining 40 Canadian and British. All very young airmen, lest we forget.

First destination is Bourras near Angouleme for the wedding of Alexandra Oser and Roberto from Italy. Vineyards cover the countryside near Cognac; we are here for a very special time. Champagne flowed from the time we arrived until we left a week later. What do I remember of the wedding day? Bride and Groom in white arrive at the Town Registry in a Bentley and then arrive by helicopter at the reception beside the Charente River. Black Truffles accompanied every meal and was the most beautiful wedding.

A green change for us now, for the next 2 months before we return to the yacht in November. Looking at the forecast in the Caribbean we are in no hurry as cyclones are forming, fingers are crossed. Heading south to Provence we visit medieval towns, enjoy French cuisine and when we have had enough move on and find a B&B for the night. The best parts are the rural countryside villages on the minor roads as we try to avoid the highways, where we are always sure to find something special.

Highlights are: Sarlat; a quaint “Hansel and Gretel” town in a valley and Domme; a medieval town perched on a hilltop with magnificent views over the region, fortified Carcassonne Chateau and swimming beneath the amazing Roman aquaduct of the Pont du Gard.

As the specialty of the area is fois gras, it is hard to pass up an opportunity to tour a goose and duck farm and see first hand the force feeding (not an old wives tale), it’s been a way of life for a very long time and even though we found it slightly disturbing, it doesn’t stop us enjoying this delicacy.

A very special experience in Arles, we walk in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh and in Les Baux de Provence at the Cathedral d’Images are projections of Van Gogh paintings screened against the white stone walls of a quarry once under a mountain. “Cathedral” is only a name used for the acoustics and beautiful soundtrack that accompany the light show. A very moving experience all round.

The fifth largest spring in the world comes out at Fontaine de Vaucluse and a very refreshing sight to see icy crystal clear water canals. It’s very hot and nothing could be better than hiring a canoe, paddle and swim 8 kilometres, passing water wheels, locks and rapids. The water is so clear we see trout, a beaver swim beneath, ducks feeding on duck weed and beautiful blue birds. Also a beautiful area where acres of lavender grow. Although we have just missed the season, it must be a very special time when the fragrance fills the air.

Now in the Luberon near Aix-en-Provence we are slowing down for awhile; there is a lot to see before we return to Bourras to help pick grapes at the end of September to bottle and probably drink some as well.

The sail from Antigua to the eastern end of Guadeloupe is a bit close to the wind so we ease away and sail the 45nms to the northern end of the river that separates the 2 islands of Guadeloupe. Negotiating the channel between the buoys in the reef and then meandering up the river through amazing mangroves, we anchor for the night under the 1st bridge. Once a day at 0430 hours the bridge opens so it’s an early start in the dark to negotiate the rest of the river.

After a day in Point a Pitre we set sail again for Les Saintes and then on to Dominica.
Pip can’t believe the comfort of sailing in the Caribbean with warm weather, 26 degree sea and a constant breeze from the east. The constant haze we have for the next few days turns out to be sand from the Sahara dessert. Long time in the atmosphere crossing the Atlantic and visibility at sea is poor.

Phil and Robbie on ‘Anteater Blues’ meet up with us in Prince Rupert Bay for a fun evening; they are delivering their yacht to Fort Lauderdale and then shipping her to Brisbane.

A special treat in Marin Martinique was watching the start of the Yole Regatta; traditional fishing boats all very colourful come from villages around the island. Bamboo masts and wooden poles, this was how they went to sea for up to 5 days fishing. Now used for racing, crew of 20, no harnesses and a beach start, one could compare them to the 18 footers.

Marigot Bay in St Lucia is very welcoming as we chance drinks at the newly opened Discovery Resort. The Snail Bar is named after the pink snail in the movie ‘Dr Doolittle’ which was filmed here. Carved out of the tropical hillside the resort couldn’t be in a more beautiful peaceful bay once used by pirates.

Between St Lucia and St Vincent a huge Dorado takes our trolling lure and before we get it on board 2 whales are cruising beside us. In rolling conditions and doing 9 knots it’s an urgent call to luff up and roll up the headsail as Ian struggles to land it. We are not sure of the whale’s intention and all the time I am not sure what to photograph. From the bloodied deck to the BBQ we have fresh fish with fresh pineapple curried rice for lunch.

A Princess Margaret beach swim on Bequia, cocktails at sunset on Mustique and snorkel with the turtles at beautiful blue Tobago Cays and in between we are on port tack sailing all the way between the islands.

Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau Island is voted number 1 for its crystal clear water, perfect anchorage and half moon bay of golden sand, lined with coconut palms, what else would you expect.

The local boys are cleaning sea urchins off Palm Island and advise the men to mix the pulp with white wine and then you will spend the night “cabin jabbin”.

Checking out of the St Vincent Grenadines we sail 5 miles south to The Grenada Grenadines and the island of Carriacou and feast on the local mangrove oysters, fresh from the swamp, with a bottle or 2 of white wine as Simon the local boatman opens them for us.

We have arrived in Prickly bay Grenada to spend 2 days preparing the yacht for hauling for the hurricane season. Sitting in a one piece cradle firmly tied to the ground with strong anchor points, we pray that no hurricanes will pass through this year.

It’s been a long and exciting 10 months on our new yacht this year; and I am looking forward to getting the sand out of my shoes. Sailing from the 42nd parallel south to the 12th, from France to the tropical Caribbean, covering in excess of 6000 nms has been challenging and rewarding especially the Atlantic crossing.

We return at the beginning of November to continue our exploring of the Caribbean.

Thank you all for enjoying our experiences.

Now its time to get serious as Ian whips us all into shape. Baney and Annie Richardson from Sydney and Don Reid from Noosa have never sailed on our yacht and by the end of the 23 mile race around the west coast to Fort James we are exhausted but very excited about our 5th place out of 16 in our division. We only missed 3rd place by 3 secs on our handicap so we are told we will just have to try harder the next day.

The 41st Stanford Antigua Race Week attracts 185 yachts from around the world. 80 in Division A and 105 in Division B. Division A is the serious racing yachts with the 98ft ‘Leopard’ and the 90ft ‘Rambler’ previously known as ‘Shockwave’ fighting it out along with TP 52’s and other hot racing yachts. This division has 7 races to complete.

Division B has 5 races all about 23nms long to various bays on the island. It is broken down to 10 divisions, 5 for chartered bare boats. All competing yachts have to be rated with the Caribbean rating certificate with several choices for rig, main and genoa, main and poled out genoa, main and 2 genoas and main genoa and spinnaker. We elect to race with poled out genoa as we will be short handed for some of the regatta.

Fort James Bay is a mass of yachts and one big beach party ashore; I think everyone on the island is here to join in. BBQ’s are covered with crayfish cooking, a live Reggae Band keeps us awake all night and we are all the time wondering if we are too old for this stuff.

Race 2 and Ian puts more effort into the start. We have from New York Phil and Ann Smith joining us for 2 races so we are now a ‘professional’ crew of 7 or pretend to be. Nudging jade coloured coral reefs and Ian taking every advantage of shifting breeze we get 2nd and celebrate back in English Harbour.

3rd race is a coastal along the southern side of the island. We want to go to the left side on the 1st beat to the top mark so Ian decides to be in the 2nd row at the start line. But he spy’s a hole and can’t resist taking it and once again we are in the thick of it leading around the mark. Coming home 4th it’s a long hot day with the wind dropping below 5 knots, something we have not experienced in our 5 months in the Caribbean.

A welcome lay day and it’s time to head for a bay for a quiet BBQ lunch and swim. Antigua boasts 365 bays, one for each day of the year.

The 4th race is to Jolly Harbour Marina for the night and it’s down to Annie, Baney, Ian and myself. Phil and Ann have gone back home and Don has departed with his yacht ‘Honey Moon’ to the USA for hauling for the hurricane season before returning to Noosa.

Ian promises to take it easy as we are seriously under crewed. No such luck as a snide remark from one fully crewed yacht accuses us of reducing crew for the light conditions. The light wind is frustrating but with a little bit of luck and low cunning we manage to get another 2nd after 6 hours of sailing. After each race the top 3 yachts are presented with a gold, silver or bronze pennant to fly from the backstay, a nice way to recognize results. Thanks to sponsor La Perla, the Jolly harbour resort puts on the most enjoyable party at the local Golf Club with great food, rum and music.

Race 5 the last race back to English Harbour under blue skies is tough, challenging and exhausting with winds from zero to 20 knots and we manage another 4th. Thank goodness we only had 5 races. This is the first time in 9 months aboard that we have actually had to sail ‘Cape Finisterre’ into the wind and tack. We are thrilled at the way she easily handled the conditions and especially against fully crewed yachts with lots of experience aboard.

Our 4th overall position in Antigua Sailing Week is a thrill and well worth all the effort.
It was great to be there and participate in these beautiful waters with perfect temperatures all day, every day and catch up with old friends Dayne Sharp and Susanne and also to cross tracks with Trevor and Maggie Joyce with another Mariner Boating Rally.

Annie and Baney fly out and Geoff and Pip Lavis fly in for our sail back down the islands to Grenada for hauling the yacht. With nearly 3 weeks up our sleeve it will be a leisurely sail for the 350nms, thank goodness!!!!!!