Sailing with the Treleavens

Our 18 hour overnight sail to Grand Cayman Island from Cuba was heightened by the sight of the Southern Cross on the bow in the night sky. It’s a great feeling; we are now on the home run. Cayman was never on our radar but it turned into a very pleasant stopover. In the middle of nowhere, this small flat island sits surrounded by pristine waters which are the clearest we have seen anywhere. Buoys can be picked up free of charge to protect the coral and towering behind us are up to seven cruise ships visiting daily including some being diverted away from Mexico.

The day we arrive is the Batabano Carnival Parade with colourful costumes, loud reggae music and locals having a lot of fun. This is the one time of the year the very religious locals let their hair down and show a bit of skin. Cayman is full of expats from every corner of the world plus a mix of Caribbean colour from other islands.

The Caymans are made up of three islands with Grand Cayman, Georgetown, as its capital. Another discovery by Columbus but how he stumbled onto it is any ones guess and it never achieved anything until it became a tax haven in the 1960s. Now home to over 700 banks, it is also home to over 70% of the world’s hedge funds. At least you know they are comfortable while they loose all our money. There is no income or company tax but the tax on all goods is very high to compensate.

Expecting Seven Mile Beach (its actually only 4 miles) to be lined with high rise apartments, we are pleasantly surprised to find building restrictions limit developments to five stories only. The stylish resorts are few in number and in my opinion this is one of the nicest Caribbean Resort beaches we have been too. After the austerity of Cuba it is nice to spoil ourselves with lunch at the Ritz Carlton pool side bar. Considering Grand Cayman was devastated by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 they have made an amazing recovery. No one was prepared for it as they had not experienced one for over 80 years.

Continuing to make friends with fellow sailors, we meet Yaron on his small catamaran in Cayo Largo. A German expat doctor on Grand Cayman he often embarks on a quick sail across to Cayo Largo (135nms away) for a long weekend. After sailing back together he invites us to his beachside house with his wife and young family for a BBQ lunch. It was nice to feel home comforts again. They love it so much they will never return home.
Swimming with stingrays is a must and quite a tourist attraction. On a shallow sand bank in North Sound, huge stingrays over a metre wide interact with humans in their natural environment. Too shallow for us to take the yacht, we join the ‘Red Sail’ 60 foot catamaran out to the sand bar. My nerves are at a high as the first thing I do is step on a ray’s razor tail that slides its way out. These huge creatures swim in and out of our legs and one takes a fancy to me as I snorkel. Coming up under me, as if to take me for a ride, I miss my beat, gulp in sea water and can’t get away fast enough. An awesome experience; they are harmless and in fact they seemed to just want a cuddle.

Our last big sail of the season is a two day 350nm passage to the Bay Islands on the north coast of Honduras. The weather window is excellent with 15 knots predicted from the east. Weaving our way out between the cruise ships, the gennaker is set and stays up for the next 24 hours….nice. Then it starts to blow and under reefed sails we have a very fast run to the Bay Islands.

During the sail we have two stowaways onboard. Several trips this year we have had bird’s lost at sea land on us and come for the ride. Unfortunately they are usually very tired, dehydrated and don’t survive. This time they are two beautiful gold finches and no matter what I did for them they both died.

Our land fall is the island of Roatan and slowing down so that we arrive in daylight we once again have to enter a bay surrounded by a coral reef that falls off to very deep water quickly. The dog leg channel into French Cay Harbour as the full moon disappears and the sun rises is out of the ordinary. Poorly marked with sticks taped with faded red and green we weave our way into the very sheltered harbour behind a reef. We later learn that all the other cruisers request assistance to be guided in by the marina manager.

The Bay Islands of Honduras are a very special destination. Marketed as a diving haven it is renowned as one of the best in the world. All the resorts are basic and cater specifically for the diving fraternity, novices and experts alike. The largest fish in existence (up to 40ft), the whale shark, is often spotted here. It is also an idyllic cruising ground with many sheltered bays behind reefs. Although part of Spanish speaking Honduras, the majority of the locals speak English as the British used the pirate haven to relocate the troublesome slaves of St Vincent and Jamaica.

It is a very laid back area and when we try to check into the country we find that the port captain is away from the island for a week and the immigration office is closed. No one has a clue what to do so we just smile and agree.

West End, on the north western corner, is protected by a low reef and here we find the mecca for diving and snorkeling. Why is it so good apart from the green crystal waters? The topography is interesting with sheer drops, there’s no current and lots of healthy coral swarming with fish. We snorkel and even though it’s deep we can see very clearly.

Ashore on the sand road are many bars and restaurants; some out on stilts over the water. There is a Thai restaurant where we celebrate my birthday.

Next stop Belize.

My most lasting memory of Cienfuegos is the contrast of beautiful buildings to people still living in a time warp. Arriving in Marina Jagua on Punta Gorda, we are met by stately old buildings that were once the waterfront ‘weekenders’ of the rich pre revolution era. A Frenchman from Louisiana founded the city in 1819 and he encouraged others to join him from Bordeaux, which means the architecture has a wonderful French flavour. The centre is only ten minutes away and our transport is horse and cart. “Clip clop, clip clop” we canter down the wide tree lined Main Avenue passing classic cars and more heritage housing.

This place is so very different to Santiago de Cuba we wonder if we are still in Cuba? But there are reminders; shops are depleted of goods and people queue for bread and quota of eggs. Finding the run down 50’s style ice cream parlour, we observe the locals queued down the street but tourists take priority and don’t have to wait. I guess we are paying more. Don’t expect 50 flavours…only three on offer with one scoop of each in a big bowl with a very old spoon made from light aluminium that’s been battered and bent.

Once again our trip to the market for fresh produce is frustrating but Pip and Geoff enjoy the banter. Pip spies an old women discreetly holding one egg and is called over to see hidden under the shelf a bag full. The ever-present flies are all over the meat and Pip reassures Geoff that they are only houseflies. The leg of pork is purchased, Ian is ripped off, but the smell of stuffed roast pork out on the next island makes it all worthwhile.

Cienfuegos was hit badly by Hurricane Dennis in 2005 but UNESCO came to the rescue with funds to help with the restoration and maintain the integrity of this world heritage site. Although a beautiful city we still found Santiago de Cuba to be more of a living city with all the music, history, and hustle and bustle.

From here we sail out to the next group of islands, Archipielago de los Canarreos and Pip and Geoff’s final destination, Cayo Largo. As we leave, we pass the never finished Soviet nuclear power station; thank goodness as they positioned it right on the waters edge. With the wind astern of us, the gennaker is set for the 45nm sail to Cayo Guano del Este. Between our destination and us, is a naval exclusion zone set by Castro after the disastrous Bay of Pigs invasion by Cuban exiles and sponsored by the USA in 1960. We take our chances and cross safely through the zone.

Arriving at the deserted island for the night we anchor under an amazing rocket ship looking lighthouse. The night is memorable; with little protection the wind picks up and waves toss us about, testing our anchor. As long as I can see that lighthouse out of my starboard porthole I get some sleep but we all have a bad night. Geoff reports that at about 2am the lighthouse lost its solar power for a period. All a bit scary, we leave early to Cayo Largo the famous resort island of Cuba.

Remember the song ‘Kokomo’ by the Beach Boys. They refer to Cayo Largo up there with other beautiful spots in the Caribbean. As we enter inside the reef, the renowned beach of Playa Sirena looks fabulous. We anchor off and enjoy the rest of the day in this area of many shades of blues on an expanse of white sand.

Ashore we arrange a tour of the ‘famous’ resorts and although interesting they are run down but all packed with tourists, mainly French Canadians or from many Spanish countries. Our tour is short and we can’t wait to get back on board and head out into the fabulous waters of the bay to enjoy the best mojito’s and get sand under our feet.

Pip and Geoff fly home and we are own again. We had a special time cruising through all the Cuban islands drinking too much rum and saturating ourselves with fresh seafood.

Every port we have called at we have been checked, searched and asked for more paperwork. As this is our last port of call and although all the officials have been very courteous, it’s a bit of an intrusion especially when the smelly sniffer dog is brought onboard as we check out. We assume to see if any locals are hidden on board.

We have loved Cuba for all its nuisances and would highly recommend all cruisers and others to visit, especially before it opens up. Our hope for the future, which is also the desire of all the locals we spoke to, that the rush to capitalism is controlled and follows a European model rather than the excesses of the USA.

Cubans are looking for change in the near future. They believed in the revolution and equality for all, which didn’t exist before, they made the most of it and lived happily with what they had, but progress has passed them by. Living standards would have to be the worst for the majority but they are all are given free accommodation, food, education, health and a guaranteed low wage. But this is now not enough. Nothing is wasted and even our empty plastic bottles where treasure to the first person as we left the dock.

Cubans are very welcoming and we soon became part of the underground black market for fuel, produce and wine. We were never very comfortable with this especially when I had to hide in guard century boxes and toilets to obtain fresh food and Ian had to collect fuel in the dinghy covered in a tarpaulin. Hustlers in the main cities (normally well educated people trying to earn the CUC currency) wear you down. They are desperate for our money but we can’t help everyone. When finally Americans can travel and sail to these shores it will greatly change things.

It has been a very special experience for us and some day we will return.

Due to the swine flu in Mexico we have been advised not to sail there. Other countries will be difficult to enter if we visit the source of the flu. Not a problem, we just sail in a different direction. We are now sailing due south 145nms to the Cayman Islands, SW to the Bay Islands of Honduras and then up the Rio Dulce of Guatemala. If things settle down we may try to visit Belize which boarders Mexico.

Geoff and Pip Lavis from Sydney, have now joined us for the 350nm sail west along the south coast of Cuba to Cienfuegos, passing the very high Sierra Maestra Mountains and on through the many cays of the Archipielago de los Jardines de la Reina (Royal Gardens).

Provisioning has been an interesting exercise. Eggs are allocated at 10 per person per month; we manage to acquire someone’s quota and also acquire more on the black market. We don’t feel guilty about this; they are all eager to get some tourist dollars (CUC). A taxi driver buys for us the bread but of course there is no choice with just one style of loaf available. Cakes we wouldn’t even consider buying; again just one style of sponge coated with mock cream. Fruit and vegetables are limited to what’s seasonal but no problem to buy and very cheap.

The two currencies are confusing and it’s creating a class difference not only for the tourist but also for the locals. Only those that have managed to acquire CUC’s may enter the Dollar shops ( the national peso is used by locals). A lot of educated people have now turned to the tourist industry, as it is their way of getting the more valuable currency.

We enjoyed our two week stay at the marina with very nice staff and more services than we expected. Cruisers come and go… some to Jamaica others to the Dominican Republic or heading west like us. Our only problem was acid rain leaving small yellow spots on the deck from a refinery near by.

We continued our sightseeing and particularly enjoyed visiting Moncada Barracks, the sight of Fidel Castro’s first failed attack against the ruling corrupt Batista government on the 26th July 1953. The bullet holes are still present on the outside of the building while inside the history of the up rising is shown in detail. Castro was finally successful on the 1st January 1959.

The local cemetery, Santa Ifigenia, is full of history especially to the martyrs of all the many uprisings over the centuries. Every half hour there is a changing of the goose stepping-guards for the tomb of Josef Marti (1853-95), the most revered of all. The Bacardi Rum family are also here plus the original Buena Vista Social Club band member Comay Segundo.

There’s not a lot of wind under the protection of the mountain range for our departure but it’s a perfect day for fishing, whales and dolphins. The mountain is 1200 metres high and the sea below is 7000 metres deep; a record height in the world for such a short distance. Many barracuda are thrown back but we keep the four tuna, hooking two at a time on separate lines.

Pilon is a night stop and next day onto Cabo Cruz, anchoring behind a breaking reef with lighthouse at the most southern part of Cuba. This is superb swimming bay with a beautiful sunset while fisherman row out to get lobster. We have never felt more secure.

Next morning, as we reach for our beach towels, we find them missing. Also gone are Ian’s old but treasured Sperry sandals. For the first time in our seven years of cruising we have that horrible feeling of someone being on board while we slept. We don’t report it as what is taken is only petty theft and there were more valuable things around like our fishing rod etc but it still leaves an uneasy feeling. In a country that we have felt safer in than anywhere else it is quite a surprise but definitely an isolated experience.

Even with no change to this glorious no sailing weather, the boys hoist the spinnaker but it’s mostly motoring. We don’t really mind, as it’s really very relaxing. The Royal Gardens are a chain of hundreds of small-uninhabited cays with white sand and covered in mangroves. The only people out here are the fisherman and us. For the next nine days we day hop to different cays, entering shallow bays surrounded by coral and see only three other yachts.

What we have really come for is the culinary delight of the sea and it doesn’t disappoint us. A fishing station is approached by Geoff and Ian in the dinghy inside a mangrove inlet. Old rusty ferro cement fishing boats (some floating and others washed ashore), lobster cages piled high and men working out here for days on end. At first they don’t have anything but its magic as Ian pulls out a bottle of rum. Suddenly seven big lobsters appear and Ian finds three cans of coke for ten smiling men.

BBQ lobster served with garlic butter for dinner and wondering if we will get any more. Our next anchorage, Cayo Anclitas, is the perfect horseshoe bay with one other yacht. It doesn’t get anymore natural than this ashore; live conch shell line the waters edge and strange trail marks leave the water and disappear into the bushes. Analysing that they look like bike tracks or maybe the roll of an anchor chain, we ignore and explore. Bugs send us back to the yacht after a stroll in the evening heat and picking up shells.

Not long after we get back to the yacht we have a visit by fishermen and we request ten lobster for two bottles of rum (at only USD4.12 a bottle). With smiling faces they set off to find them. In the meantime the other cruising boat comes over and asks if we saw the crocodiles on the beach….. instantly there are four very stunned, very still people with mouths open on the deck of Finisterre.

After half an hour the fisherman returned with 23 lobsters! Lobster omelette for breakfast, lobster salad with Thousand Island dressing for lunch and lobster green curry for dinner. In fact out of eight consecutive meals seven included lobster. We have now gone from healthy hearts to high cholesterol.

We sail onto where the prawn fishing fleet are based in Cayo Cuervo. Once again the big ships are approached and the heads are shaking no until the rum comes out. Ian is asked onboard and points to the prawns. Six kilos of prawns later, we have five meals of crustaceans and finally, a very welcome pork chop. Rum has been our best friend to date.

Every cay and anchorage we visited has been superb and all recommended by Jesus the local skipper of the charter catamaran we met in Santiago. On arriving at Cayos Machos de Fuera we find a cay that’s a natural habitat for endangered mammals. Ashore a caretaker takes us on an amazing circumnavigation of the island, in and out of mangroves, sighting birds, iguanas and jutia (tree rats the size of cats) all living with no fear of humans. Fortunately there are no crocodiles. A lot of animals became endangered, especially the tree rat, as they were eaten by Cubans when food was scarce during Castro’s special period of austerity after the full of the Soviet Union in 1991.

After nine days of near isolation at sea, we look forward to returning to civilisation. With a 55nm sail on to the classic city of Cienfuegos we awake to a 20 knot North easterly for a perfect sail along the mountainous coast. Entering another narrow entrance we sail across the big enclosed bay to the marina. Very interesting architecture awaits us.