Sailing with the Treleavens

Its amazing how long the arms of a hurricane can extend. The hurricane that passed through the US Virgin Islands last week created a huge wave system.

We have arrived in Martinique on route to the yacht in Grenada and were astounded to wake up in the morning on the shores of Anse Mitan to see absolute carnage. The restaurant and marina Le Ponton has gone. All that remains are the concrete piles and a shell of a restaurant. The beach near by is mainly stones with several wrecks on the points. The resort inside the collapsed breakwater around the corner has several wrecks on the beach and the exclusive appartments there are closed. All this was caused not by wind but just 3 to 4 metre waves created by the hurricane 250 nms away.

This is the 4th time in 10 years that Le Ponton has been destroyed and with no insurance this time he has retreated to the golf club to open a restaurant. It will be a long time before the marina is replaced if ever.

We spent a long time in this bay and it is sad to see all the damage. But it is amazing how the locals just take it in their stride and life goes on.
It proves to us that taking care in storing your yacht safely during the hurricane season is so important.

What would you prefer me to do, write this letter to you or have another glass of Chateauneuf du Pape wine. Anyone of our vintage will remember this wine as something special from France or was it just the great sounding name we all loved to pronounce?

Two weeks ago we arrived in Paris with our son Ian and picked up our new hire car; a special arrangement for non EU residence, buy and drive for as long as you want and then they take it back to sell second hand tax free. Good deal all round. Next best thing was a Tom Tom GPS navigator, no more divorces just a very pleasant lady saying ‘turn around when possible’, instead of the familiar “you missed the f**king turn!”. To date best invention ever, only problem is I will have to master by the time young Ian leaves.

Paris looked fabulous as ever, perfume filled the air and chocolateries on very corner makes this still a very romantic city. Driving around the Arc de Triomphe is nerve racking as it’s a drive/don’t look around approach. Before we leave Paris we show young Ian the grave of his Great Uncle Basil Collyns who was shot down over Paris in the 2nd World War aged 31. In this civilian cemetery is a special memorial of individual graves of one New Zealander, four Australians and the remaining 40 Canadian and British. All very young airmen, lest we forget.

First destination is Bourras near Angouleme for the wedding of Alexandra Oser and Roberto from Italy. Vineyards cover the countryside near Cognac; we are here for a very special time. Champagne flowed from the time we arrived until we left a week later. What do I remember of the wedding day? Bride and Groom in white arrive at the Town Registry in a Bentley and then arrive by helicopter at the reception beside the Charente River. Black Truffles accompanied every meal and was the most beautiful wedding.

A green change for us now, for the next 2 months before we return to the yacht in November. Looking at the forecast in the Caribbean we are in no hurry as cyclones are forming, fingers are crossed. Heading south to Provence we visit medieval towns, enjoy French cuisine and when we have had enough move on and find a B&B for the night. The best parts are the rural countryside villages on the minor roads as we try to avoid the highways, where we are always sure to find something special.

Highlights are: Sarlat; a quaint “Hansel and Gretel” town in a valley and Domme; a medieval town perched on a hilltop with magnificent views over the region, fortified Carcassonne Chateau and swimming beneath the amazing Roman aquaduct of the Pont du Gard.

As the specialty of the area is fois gras, it is hard to pass up an opportunity to tour a goose and duck farm and see first hand the force feeding (not an old wives tale), it’s been a way of life for a very long time and even though we found it slightly disturbing, it doesn’t stop us enjoying this delicacy.

A very special experience in Arles, we walk in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh and in Les Baux de Provence at the Cathedral d’Images are projections of Van Gogh paintings screened against the white stone walls of a quarry once under a mountain. “Cathedral” is only a name used for the acoustics and beautiful soundtrack that accompany the light show. A very moving experience all round.

The fifth largest spring in the world comes out at Fontaine de Vaucluse and a very refreshing sight to see icy crystal clear water canals. It’s very hot and nothing could be better than hiring a canoe, paddle and swim 8 kilometres, passing water wheels, locks and rapids. The water is so clear we see trout, a beaver swim beneath, ducks feeding on duck weed and beautiful blue birds. Also a beautiful area where acres of lavender grow. Although we have just missed the season, it must be a very special time when the fragrance fills the air.

Now in the Luberon near Aix-en-Provence we are slowing down for awhile; there is a lot to see before we return to Bourras to help pick grapes at the end of September to bottle and probably drink some as well.

Whales, Dorado fish, turtles, turquoise bays, everything Caribbean, we are having the perfect sail south with Pip and Geoff Lavis on board. Grenada is 350 miles away with 14 or more islands to anchor. Bay hopping, swimming, eating and drinking, island after island, is very relaxing as we cruise back where we have been before.

The sail from Antigua to the eastern end of Guadeloupe is a bit close to the wind so we ease away and sail the 45nms to the northern end of the river that separates the 2 islands of Guadeloupe. Negotiating the channel between the buoys in the reef and then meandering up the river through amazing mangroves, we anchor for the night under the 1st bridge. Once a day at 0430 hours the bridge opens so it’s an early start in the dark to negotiate the rest of the river.

After a day in Point a Pitre we set sail again for Les Saintes and then on to Dominica.
Pip can’t believe the comfort of sailing in the Caribbean with warm weather, 26 degree sea and a constant breeze from the east. The constant haze we have for the next few days turns out to be sand from the Sahara dessert. Long time in the atmosphere crossing the Atlantic and visibility at sea is poor.

Phil and Robbie on ‘Anteater Blues’ meet up with us in Prince Rupert Bay for a fun evening; they are delivering their yacht to Fort Lauderdale and then shipping her to Brisbane.

A special treat in Marin Martinique was watching the start of the Yole Regatta; traditional fishing boats all very colourful come from villages around the island. Bamboo masts and wooden poles, this was how they went to sea for up to 5 days fishing. Now used for racing, crew of 20, no harnesses and a beach start, one could compare them to the 18 footers.

Marigot Bay in St Lucia is very welcoming as we chance drinks at the newly opened Discovery Resort. The Snail Bar is named after the pink snail in the movie ‘Dr Doolittle’ which was filmed here. Carved out of the tropical hillside the resort couldn’t be in a more beautiful peaceful bay once used by pirates.

Between St Lucia and St Vincent a huge Dorado takes our trolling lure and before we get it on board 2 whales are cruising beside us. In rolling conditions and doing 9 knots it’s an urgent call to luff up and roll up the headsail as Ian struggles to land it. We are not sure of the whale’s intention and all the time I am not sure what to photograph. From the bloodied deck to the BBQ we have fresh fish with fresh pineapple curried rice for lunch.

A Princess Margaret beach swim on Bequia, cocktails at sunset on Mustique and snorkel with the turtles at beautiful blue Tobago Cays and in between we are on port tack sailing all the way between the islands.

Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau Island is voted number 1 for its crystal clear water, perfect anchorage and half moon bay of golden sand, lined with coconut palms, what else would you expect.

The local boys are cleaning sea urchins off Palm Island and advise the men to mix the pulp with white wine and then you will spend the night “cabin jabbin”.

Checking out of the St Vincent Grenadines we sail 5 miles south to The Grenada Grenadines and the island of Carriacou and feast on the local mangrove oysters, fresh from the swamp, with a bottle or 2 of white wine as Simon the local boatman opens them for us.

We have arrived in Prickly bay Grenada to spend 2 days preparing the yacht for hauling for the hurricane season. Sitting in a one piece cradle firmly tied to the ground with strong anchor points, we pray that no hurricanes will pass through this year.

It’s been a long and exciting 10 months on our new yacht this year; and I am looking forward to getting the sand out of my shoes. Sailing from the 42nd parallel south to the 12th, from France to the tropical Caribbean, covering in excess of 6000 nms has been challenging and rewarding especially the Atlantic crossing.

We return at the beginning of November to continue our exploring of the Caribbean.

Thank you all for enjoying our experiences.